Puggz Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 Just wondering what y'all do. My method: Wash and detail as req'd. Road salt! K100 (1/2 bottle) in each tank w/ the engine run to ensure the product gets to the FE system and/or the carb. Tank is full of premium (no E10) Leave them in my enclosed trailer (outdoors), on stands and batteries removed and on tenders Sea Foam through the airbox (carbs) and in each combustion chamber. I do not loosen the tracks. Thoughts?? TIA. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toyman Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 In no particular order: The normal washing, cleaning, detailing, fuel treatment part. Change engine (4S thing) and gear oil and adjust tension. Pull the skid and remove all bearings to check, replace or repack with fresh grease, touch up paint as required, and reinstall with loosened track. Depending on mileage I will check all other bearings to replace or repack as well. Remove and wash belt. Retorque studs. Check all fasteners and inspect hoses, lube cables and silicon all rubber. Remove tension on all springs, noting preload measurements and store on lift in garage. I believe having the weight off of the springs is important and easy to do. I do a lot of solo riding so don't want to have any trouble on the trail because I didn't notice something that was preventable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strong Farmer Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 (edited) Also I like to coat metal and fasteners and exhaust with a engine storage oil. Keeps it from rusting during storage. Loosening track doesn’t matter on modern sleds I was told. Edited March 9, 2020 by Strong Farmer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yukon Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 Ride hard and put away wet. Beg the mechanic for forgiveness at a later date! 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signfan Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 Say it's not so. Too early for this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muskoka Man Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 1 hour ago, Yukon Cornelious said: Ride hard and put away wet. Beg the mechanic for forgiveness at a later date! Preventive maintenance can save some big $$ and headaches 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Doo Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 Does snowchecking count for summerization?.... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yukon Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 36 minutes ago, TURBO DOO said: Does snowchecking count for summerization?.... I Doo believe it does! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Doo Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 1 minute ago, Yukon Cornelious said: I Doo believe it does! Ok, just checking. April 14 is fast approaching. Mrs. Turbo Doo needs to make a decision.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toyman Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 3 hours ago, signfan said: Say it's not so. Too early for this thread. It hopefully is too early, but after the heavy rain and continued light rain to follow the trails around here are going to take a beating. Looks like the only option will be heading north now. Time to load the trailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zertrider Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 Pull into heated shop. Add StarTron to fuel. Run for a few minutes. Turn off key. Put on sled dollies. Push into corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PISTON LAKE CRUISER Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 Here's a fuel system summarizing question: After you have added the fuel stabilization product of choice, how many minutes (in general) do you need to idle the engine to be sure that the stabilizer has made its way through the carbs or injectors? I have always figured that 20-25 minutes would do it. In the past I have added Sta-bil at least the day before running the engine to insure it was well mixed with the gas. The last 2 years I have carried stabilizer with me and added it during the last ride when putting the last part tank of fuel in the sled. I have always run the tank as empty as possible for summer storage then added non ethanol gas before starting the engine in the fall. right or wrong this method has worked on all 14 sleds I have owned which never had a engine failure due too fuel issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Pussy Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 If the gas tank is empty with an electric fuel pump in the tank, you risk drying out the pump and them when it runs the first time, the seals in the pump can be destroyed. The pump would them have low fuel pressure when needed the most and the engine would bog. I had this happen once many years ago so now EFI sleds are stored with half a tank of premium fuel so the pump is immersed to stay wet. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poo Man Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 2 hours ago, Big Pussy said: stored with half a tank of premium fue I do the same even though plenty of places recommend a full tank. Makes me feel better to have some fresh fuel come first run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soupkids Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 This year I will do all the drive bearings as my sled has over 6000 miles on the clock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signfan Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, Poo Man said: I do the same even though plenty of places recommend a full tank. Makes me feel better to have some fresh fuel come first run. Theory on the full tank is there is no room left in the tank for condensation to build up in (temp and humidity changes that occur over the summer). Old gas with no water in it is better than new gas with water in it. That's the theory anyways. Definately want premium fuel and a good stabilizer in there regardless of which theory you subscribe to. Kinda like do I change the 4 stroke oil now or in the fall. Both arguments have merit. I fill the tank full, but leave the oil to change in the fall provided I don't find any moisture on the dipstick when I check in the spring. Edited March 10, 2020 by signfan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MXZSlider Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 - Strip front cowling/headlights etc off - Inspect wiring/harness and fuses for wear n tare - Check engine bay, motor braces, exhaust, skid plate etc for any damages hidden by cowling - Inspect/replace Clutch belt as required - Inspect & grease front suspension (order runners/carbides if required) - Inspect/add or replace Oil, Coolant & chaincase fluids - Inspect Tunnel, Heat Exchangers and Track - Check Skid, Idler Wheels & replace bearings if required - Grease Rear Suspension - Add fuel stabilzer and full tank of 93 Octane minimum and let run - Hit Summerization mode - Re-assemble - Wash/Clean etc - Cover and store on stand, push to back of garage 2-4hrs work all said & done. Usually a Sat/Sun morn or evening after work effort. I may be a little OCD on my procedure, but at least I know what I may or may not be dealing with at the end of the season and what needs attention before going into the next. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strong Farmer Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 23 hours ago, PISTON LAKE CRUISER said: Here's a fuel system summarizing question: After you have added the fuel stabilization product of choice, how many minutes (in general) do you need to idle the engine to be sure that the stabilizer has made its way through the carbs or injectors? I have always figured that 20-25 minutes would do it. In the past I have added Sta-bil at least the day before running the engine to insure it was well mixed with the gas. The last 2 years I have carried stabilizer with me and added it during the last ride when putting the last part tank of fuel in the sled. I have always run the tank as empty as possible for summer storage then added non ethanol gas before starting the engine in the fall. right or wrong this method has worked on all 14 sleds I have owned which never had a engine failure due too fuel issues. Added last ride and running tank low is a good idea and can also get a marine stabilizer that will work if there is ethanol in fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manotickmike Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 91. 91 is what you usually need to avoid putting subsidized corn in your tank. Stabilizer, then drain in Fall, snowblower gets my sled gas, John Deere gets my (3) dirtbike and ATV storage fuel in the spring. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakesnowcrest Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 Wash it off Fill fuel to eliminate condensation and stabilize Remove belt Change oil and filter (Four stroke) Change spark plugs Run sea foam through it Run Fogging oil through it Block off exhaust, airbox and other openings from critters. Grease any grease points and lubricate moving parts Change chain oil and check chain adjustment Disconnect battery and trickle charge over summer - clean battery connections Lift track off ground / block up Lubricate throttle linkage and brake lever. Oil coat track clips, rear skid and front suspension to prevent rusting Remove any touring bags that critters can get into. Inspect machine and make a parts list for the fall. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsedtoSkidoo Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 close trailer door. start every month after. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOM Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 Yup i just run mine once a month just like any other engine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Nothing out of the ordinary from what you guys have said. Siphoned tank as much as I could the other day. Added 25 L of premium today & will add Sta-Bil. Since I got the 4S, I've started the sled & let it warm up about once a month. Will change oil & filter in fall. Battery on a tender (connector hard-wired to battery) Grease lube points Steel wool in muffler outlet Getting the shocks serviced this spring Fill tank w/ fresh gas for 1st ride on the season in Nov' or Dec'. I can't think of anything else off the top of my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volunteer2 Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 (edited) Star Tron Enzyme Fuel treatment on sale at TSC 40 % off Use that when stabilizing ethanal gas Or am I drinking the kool aid ?? Stand down red alert. Was last week's flyer. Oh well no sense of leaving the house now Edited March 21, 2020 by volunteer2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signfan Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 On 3/17/2020 at 9:02 PM, revrnd said: Nothing out of the ordinary from what you guys have said. Siphoned tank as much as I could the other day. Added 25 L of premium today & will add Sta-Bil. Since I got the 4S, I've started the sled & let it warm up about once a month. Will change oil & filter in fall. Battery on a tender (connector hard-wired to battery) Grease lube points Steel wool in muffler outlet Getting the shocks serviced this spring Fill tank w/ fresh gas for 1st ride on the season in Nov' or Dec'. I can't think of anything else off the top of my head. Who do you get to service shocks and what does it cost? Something I've heard about lots, but never did. Does it make much difference,? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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