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Summerizing routine

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Just wondering what y'all do.  My method:

 

  • Wash and detail as req'd. Road salt!
  • K100 (1/2 bottle) in each tank w/ the engine run to ensure the product gets to the FE system and/or the carb. Tank is full of premium (no E10)
  • Leave them in my enclosed trailer (outdoors), on stands and batteries removed and on tenders
  • Sea Foam through the airbox (carbs) and in each combustion chamber.

 

I do not loosen the tracks.  Thoughts??

 

TIA.

 

P.

 

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In no particular order:

  •  The normal washing, cleaning, detailing, fuel treatment part.
  • Change engine (4S thing) and gear oil and adjust tension.
  • Pull the skid and remove all bearings to check, replace or repack with fresh grease, touch up paint as required, and reinstall with loosened track. 
  • Depending on mileage I will check all other bearings to replace or repack as well.
  • Remove and wash belt.
  • Retorque studs.
  • Check all fasteners and inspect hoses, lube cables and silicon all rubber.
  • Remove tension on all springs, noting preload measurements and store on lift in garage. I believe having the weight off of the springs is important and easy to do.

I do a lot of solo riding so don't want to have any trouble on the trail because I didn't notice something that was preventable.

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Also I like to coat metal and fasteners and exhaust with a engine storage oil. Keeps it from rusting during storage. Loosening track doesn’t matter on modern sleds I was told. 

Edited by Strong Farmer

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Ride hard and put away wet.

 

Beg the mechanic for forgiveness at a later date! ;)

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Say it's not so.  Too early for this thread.

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1 hour ago, Yukon Cornelious said:

Ride hard and put away wet.

 

Beg the mechanic for forgiveness at a later date! ;)

Preventive maintenance can save some big $$ and headaches 

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Does snowchecking count for summerization?.8-):rotflmao::lmao:... 

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36 minutes ago, TURBO DOO said:

Does snowchecking count for summerization?.8-):rotflmao::lmao:... 

I Doo believe it does!

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1 minute ago, Yukon Cornelious said:

I Doo believe it does!

Ok, just checking.  April 14 is fast approaching.  Mrs. Turbo Doo needs to make a decision..:evil2:..

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3 hours ago, signfan said:

Say it's not so.  Too early for this thread.

It hopefully is too early, but after the heavy rain and continued light rain to follow the trails around here are going to take a beating.

 

Looks like the only option will be heading north now. Time to load the trailer.

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Pull into heated shop. Add StarTron to fuel. Run for a few minutes. Turn off key. Put on sled dollies. Push into corner.

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Here's a fuel system summarizing question:

After you have added the fuel stabilization product of choice, how many minutes (in general) do you need to idle the engine to be sure that the stabilizer has made its way through the carbs or injectors? 

I have always figured that 20-25 minutes would do it.

In the past I have added Sta-bil at least the day before running the engine to insure it was well mixed with the gas.

The last 2 years I have carried stabilizer with me and added it during the last ride when putting the last part tank of fuel in the sled. 

I have always run the tank as empty as possible for summer storage then added non ethanol gas before starting the engine in the fall.  right or wrong this method has worked on all 14 sleds I have owned which never had a engine failure due too fuel issues.

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If the gas tank is empty with an electric fuel pump in the tank, you risk drying out the pump and them when it runs the first time, the seals in the pump can  be destroyed.  The pump would them have low fuel pressure when needed the most and the engine would bog.   I had this happen once many years ago so now EFI sleds are stored with half a tank of premium fuel so the pump is immersed to stay wet.

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2 hours ago, Big Pussy said:

stored with half a tank of premium fue

I do the same even though plenty of places recommend a full tank. Makes me feel better to have some fresh fuel come first run.

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This year I will do all the drive bearings as my sled has over 6000 miles on the clock.

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5 hours ago, Poo Man said:

I do the same even though plenty of places recommend a full tank. Makes me feel better to have some fresh fuel come first run.

Theory on the full tank is there is no room left in the tank for condensation to build up in (temp and humidity changes that occur over the summer).  Old gas with no water in it is better than new gas with water in it.  That's the theory anyways.  Definately want premium fuel and a good stabilizer in there regardless of which theory you subscribe to.  Kinda like do I change the 4 stroke oil now or in the fall.  Both arguments have merit.  I fill the tank full, but leave the oil to change in the fall provided I don't find any moisture on the dipstick when I check in the spring.

Edited by signfan

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- Strip front cowling/headlights etc off

- Inspect wiring/harness and fuses for wear n tare

- Check engine bay, motor braces, exhaust, skid plate etc for any damages hidden by cowling

- Inspect/replace Clutch belt as required

- Inspect & grease front suspension (order runners/carbides if required) 

- Inspect/add or replace Oil, Coolant & chaincase fluids

- Inspect Tunnel, Heat Exchangers and Track

- Check Skid, Idler Wheels & replace bearings if required

- Grease Rear Suspension

- Add fuel stabilzer and full tank of 93 Octane minimum and let run

- Hit Summerization mode

- Re-assemble 

- Wash/Clean etc 

- Cover and store on stand, push to back of garage 

 

2-4hrs work all said & done. Usually a Sat/Sun morn or evening after work effort. I may be a little OCD on my procedure, but at least I know what I may or may not be dealing with at the end of the season and what needs attention before going into the next. 

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23 hours ago, PISTON LAKE CRUISER said:

Here's a fuel system summarizing question:

After you have added the fuel stabilization product of choice, how many minutes (in general) do you need to idle the engine to be sure that the stabilizer has made its way through the carbs or injectors? 

I have always figured that 20-25 minutes would do it.

In the past I have added Sta-bil at least the day before running the engine to insure it was well mixed with the gas.

The last 2 years I have carried stabilizer with me and added it during the last ride when putting the last part tank of fuel in the sled. 

I have always run the tank as empty as possible for summer storage then added non ethanol gas before starting the engine in the fall.  right or wrong this method has worked on all 14 sleds I have owned which never had a engine failure due too fuel issues.

Added last ride and running tank low is a good idea and can also get a marine stabilizer that will work if there is ethanol in fuel. 

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91. 91 is what you usually need to avoid putting subsidized corn in your tank.

Stabilizer, then drain in Fall, snowblower gets my sled gas, John Deere gets my (3) dirtbike and ATV storage fuel in the spring.

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Wash it off

Fill fuel to eliminate condensation and stabilize 

Remove belt

Change oil and filter (Four stroke)

Change spark plugs

Run sea foam through it

Run Fogging oil through it

Block off exhaust, airbox and other openings from critters.

Grease any grease points and lubricate moving parts

Change chain oil and check chain adjustment

Disconnect battery and trickle charge over summer - clean battery connections

Lift track off ground / block up

Lubricate throttle linkage and brake lever. 

Oil coat track clips, rear skid and front suspension to prevent rusting

Remove any touring bags that critters can get into. 

Inspect machine and make a parts list for the fall. 

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Yup i just run mine once a month just like any other engine

 

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Nothing out of the ordinary from what you guys have said. Siphoned tank as much as I could the other day. Added 25 L of premium today & will add Sta-Bil. Since I got the 4S, I've started the sled & let it warm up about once a month. Will change oil & filter in fall.

 

Battery on a tender (connector hard-wired to battery)

 

Grease lube points

 

Steel wool in muffler outlet

 

Getting the shocks serviced this spring

 

Fill tank w/ fresh gas for 1st ride on the season in Nov' or Dec'.

 

I can't think of anything else off the top of my head.

 

 

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Star Tron Enzyme Fuel treatment on sale at TSC  40 % off    Use that when stabilizing ethanal gas    Or  am I drinking the kool aid ??   Stand down red alert. Was last week's flyer.  Oh well no sense of leaving the house now    

Edited by volunteer2
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On 3/17/2020 at 9:02 PM, revrnd said:

Nothing out of the ordinary from what you guys have said. Siphoned tank as much as I could the other day. Added 25 L of premium today & will add Sta-Bil. Since I got the 4S, I've started the sled & let it warm up about once a month. Will change oil & filter in fall.

 

Battery on a tender (connector hard-wired to battery)

 

Grease lube points

 

Steel wool in muffler outlet

 

Getting the shocks serviced this spring

 

Fill tank w/ fresh gas for 1st ride on the season in Nov' or Dec'.

 

I can't think of anything else off the top of my head.

 

 

Who do you get to service shocks and what does it cost?  Something I've heard about lots, but never did.  Does it make much difference,?

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