Dave K Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 I have a 2002 14 ft 3 sled open Triton trailer. Decided to do some PM on it today, and ended up being a good thing. Both brake calipers are seized. Now comes the situation. Tandem axle trailer, with brakes on first axle. Calipers are $290, need new rotors. Upgraded ones, $210, and hoses $50, for a total of $550/side, or $1100. ETA is a few weeks, not a big deal other than having it torn apart in my shed for that long Option 2 is change out the axles. Same axle with electric brakes. Something available at every trailer supply/repair place. Cost is a bit more, as I have to change 2 axles, and need bigger tires/ rims. Looks to be about $1750 or so by time I'm done. It would give me 2 new axles for 15+ more years of use. Rest of trailer is in excellent shape, and can easily last many more years. Whats everyone's thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strong Farmer Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Dave K said: I have a 2002 14 ft 3 sled open Triton trailer. Decided to do some PM on it today, and ended up being a good thing. Both brake calipers are seized. Now comes the situation. Tandem axle trailer, with brakes on first axle. Calipers are $290, need new rotors. Upgraded ones, $210, and hoses $50, for a total of $550/side, or $1100. ETA is a few weeks, not a big deal other than having it torn apart in my shed for that long Option 2 is change out the axles. Same axle with electric brakes. Something available at every trailer supply/repair place. Cost is a bit more, as I have to change 2 axles, and need bigger tires/ rims. Looks to be about $1750 or so by time I'm done. It would give me 2 new axles for 15+ more years of use. Rest of trailer is in excellent shape, and can easily last many more years. Whats everyone's thoughts. What shape are current bearings in? If bearings still ok and just put in re packed ones, I would just use old axles again. You have two anyways so you can always get back home on two wheels. Save rest of cash for trail permits. Why spend money you don’t need too. You may want an enclosed trailer before 15 years is up anyways. Good luck Edited July 14, 2020 by Strong Farmer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave K Posted July 14, 2020 Author Share Posted July 14, 2020 (edited) 3 minutes ago, Strong Farmer said: What shape are current bearings in? If bearings still ok and just put in re packed ones, I would just use old axles again. You have two anyways so you can always get back home on two wheels. Save rest of cash for trail permits. Why spend money you don’t need too. You may want an enclosed trailer before 15 years is up anyways. Good luck I've got two sets of new bearings in the shed as PM also right now. Have to add that to the cost of the option 1 $75/set from triton, with all new hardware and grease etc... If i dont need them, I will return them, just want to have them here if needed when tearing the hubs apart. Edited July 14, 2020 by Dave K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PISTON LAKE CRUISER Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 5 minutes ago, Dave K said: I have a 2002 14 ft 3 sled open Triton trailer. Decided to do some PM on it today, and ended up being a good thing. Both brake calipers are seized. Now comes the situation. Tandem axle trailer, with brakes on first axle. Calipers are $290, need new rotors. Upgraded ones, $210, and hoses $50, for a total of $550/side, or $1100. ETA is a few weeks, not a big deal other than having it torn apart in my shed for that long Option 2 is change out the axles. Same axle with electric brakes. Something available at every trailer supply/repair place. Cost is a bit more, as I have to change 2 axles, and need bigger tires/ rims. Looks to be about $1750 or so by time I'm done. It would give me 2 new axles for 15+ more years of use. Rest of trailer is in excellent shape, and can easily last many more years. Whats everyone's thoughts. My buddy has a Triton open bed with electric brakes. Every year the brakes weren't working and he would have his transport companies shop go through ahd get them working and replace anything that needed replacing. We used it for our yearly saddlebag trip plus others. I don't know anything about the disc brakes but I'm not impressed with electric brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave K Posted July 14, 2020 Author Share Posted July 14, 2020 Just now, PISTON LAKE CRUISER said: My buddy has a Triton open bed with electric brakes. Every year the brakes weren't working and he would have his transport companies shop go through ahd get them working and replace anything that needed replacing. We used it for our yearly saddlebag trip plus others. I don't know anything about the disc brakes but I'm not impressed with electric brakes. Ive owned the trailer for 6 years. First time touching them. They are more money, but havent had any issues yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ox Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 (edited) You only have brakes on one axle? We put all new brake kits on all three axles on my 21K# gooseneck, and I really don't recall it coming anywhere near your costs! Edited July 14, 2020 by Ox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave K Posted July 14, 2020 Author Share Posted July 14, 2020 4 minutes ago, Ox said: You only have brakes on one axle? We put all new brake kits on all three axles on my 21K# gooseneck, and I really don't recall it coming anywhere near your costs! Is yours electric or hydraulic? Mine are hydraulic, I think that's why the higher cost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Pussy Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 It don't matter which way you go, you will never keep brakes on a trailer used in the winter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ox Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 15 minutes ago, Big Pussy said: It don't matter which way you go, you will never keep brakes on a trailer used in the winter. Lots of truth there, but mine are electric / drums Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidooboy Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 helps if you clean them in the spring and coat the working parts with fluid film. they will last longer, if you maintain them. the electrical assys are the only way to go, in the states. can get new assys for about 70 bucks ea, if you need drums too... another 80 each. cheap insurance. Ski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Saul Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 All trailer brakes are a pain in the ass.. Best choice is what you are more comfortable with.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poo Man Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Princess auto has rockwell 3500lb axles with electric Brakes for $499. That's what I would do as they are so simple to service, just a magnet to replace for the most part. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PISTON LAKE CRUISER Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Hey Dave did you check the frame rails for damage where they meet up with the steel axle mounting brackets? You pretty much have to loosen the mounting bolts right off to see the worst of the damage but that might mean having to align the axle when you retighten them unless you mark the bracket and frame before loosening and match them up after inspection. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave K Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 34 minutes ago, PISTON LAKE CRUISER said: Hey Dave did you check the frame rails for damage where they meet up with the steel axle mounting brackets? You pretty much have to loosen the mounting bolts right off to see the worst of the damage but that might mean having to align the axle when you retighten them unless you mark the bracket and frame before loosening and match them up after inspection. The frame rails aren't showing any wear, or "bubbling" around where the axle is mounted. There is a rubber gasket between the axle and frame. The aluminum isnt pitted or anything near there. But yes, a good idea to mark the frame rails before loosening should I decide to go that way. Thanks, I never would have thought of that. Im leaning to just repairing what I have. I know that they have worked well, untouched for 5 or 6 winters. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sledjunk Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 8 hours ago, Dave K said: Ive owned the trailer for 6 years. First time touching them. They are more money, but havent had any issues yet. I had the surge disc brakes on my previous trailer. They have needed replacing a couple of times over the course of the 10 years I used it. Electric brakes will need to be serviced and likely have parts replaced every year. The disc brakes are more money up front, but, IMO, a better way to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strong Farmer Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 6 hours ago, sledjunk said: I had the surge disc brakes on my previous trailer. They have needed replacing a couple of times over the course of the 10 years I used it. Electric brakes will need to be serviced and likely have parts replaced every year. The disc brakes are more money up front, but, IMO, a better way to go. I have had more trouble with electrics too. Only nice thing I like about electric is it is easy to verify if they are working and you can adjust intensity, if you carry different weight amounts in your trailer. Which can save wear and tear on vehicle brakes. Which is a handy feature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Pussy Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 9 minutes ago, Strong Farmer said: Only nice thing I like about electric is it is easy to verify if they are working and you can adjust intensity, if you carry different weight amounts in your trailer. Which can save wear and tear on vehicle brakes. Which is a handy feature. I would think that surge brakes do this automatically. The more moving mass of the trailer, the more overhauling load against the truck means more compression of the master cylinder makes more brake force. Maybe someone who uses these trailers can comment on this. Do you feel much more force to hold back with a larger load ? I would think that the challenge is to keep the lines properly bled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strong Farmer Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 14 minutes ago, Big Pussy said: I would think that surge brakes do this automatically. The more moving mass of the trailer, the more overhauling load against the truck means more compression of the master cylinder makes more brake force. Maybe someone who uses these trailers can comment on this. Do you feel much more force to hold back with a larger load ? I would think that the challenge is to keep the lines properly bled. Electric breaks are strong and tires will lock if not adjust properly, during harder breaking. I don’t own anything at moment that has surge style brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AC+YA Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 I have put my trailer brakes on separately in a couple situations over the years and they helped to save me. I usually have been pulling a big trailer and it almost helps to keep me stable on icy conditions. You can't do it with surge brakes and I am pretty sure surge brakes won't do as much good on ice. It needs the tow vehicle to work against which does not happen on ice. I would never want that situation towing any amount of weight. You need to use the brakes every day or they quickly corrode if run in salt. I need to take them apart every season and I spray them with oil to keep them working through each winter. I find some of them seized every year and sometimes can just loosen them, but often buy a complete kit from E-Trailer and replace. I spray new ones before closing them up. My sled trailers have #3500 torsion axles. The bigger trailers we have use #7000 axles. Try to never run those in salt! Last much longer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sledjunk Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Big Pussy said: I would think that surge brakes do this automatically. The more moving mass of the trailer, the more overhauling load against the truck means more compression of the master cylinder makes more brake force. Maybe someone who uses these trailers can comment on this. Do you feel much more force to hold back with a larger load ? I would think that the challenge is to keep the lines properly bled. Bleeding is not usually the issue. With the salt and slop, the calipers and pins can seize and need replacing. Regular servicing helps. 1 hour ago, Strong Farmer said: Electric breaks are strong and tires will lock if not adjust properly, during harder breaking. I don’t own anything at moment that has surge style brakes. The idea when braking, is to NOT lock the wheels because once they lose traction, the CoF is reduced. The surge brakes are equally strong, but are proportioned according to how much brake is required. 1 hour ago, AC+YA said: I have put my trailer brakes on separately in a couple situations over the years and they helped to save me. I usually have been pulling a big trailer and it almost helps to keep me stable on icy conditions. You can't do it with surge brakes and I am pretty sure surge brakes won't do as much good on ice. It needs the tow vehicle to work against which does not happen on ice. I would never want that situation towing any amount of weight. You need to use the brakes every day or they quickly corrode if run in salt. I need to take them apart every season and I spray them with oil to keep them working through each winter. I find some of them seized every year and sometimes can just loosen them, but often buy a complete kit from E-Trailer and replace. I spray new ones before closing them up. My sled trailers have #3500 torsion axles. The bigger trailers we have use #7000 axles. Try to never run those in salt! Last much longer. I understand what you are saying, and that was my thinking of going with electric brakes with my new trailer. Over the years with my surge brake trailer, I have not come across a situation where they were an issue, but I can see the advantage of being able to manually activate the brakes. Still hope I don't need it, though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Pussy Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 20 minutes ago, sledjunk said: Still hope I don't need it, though Whenever I had a crap my pants moment, I was too busy steering to be able to pull the electric brake handle if I had one. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamadan700 Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 (edited) Check out cerka.ca. They are in Milton. Large outfit. I bought a custom length axle with hubs(no brakes) for my back-up open sled trailer for around $130. Built in-house. Best prices around. Much cheaper than Princess Auto. They also sell brake kits. Edited July 15, 2020 by yamadan700 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AC+YA Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Big Pussy said: Whenever I had a crap my pants moment, I was too busy steering to be able to pull the electric brake handle if I had one. There was a wind blown snow to ice patch night coming down 127 when the wind kicked my trailer across into the other lane and it tried to pass me. It was like pulling the rip cord on a parachute when I slid the trailer brake lever all the way over and it all straightened out behind me. I did not want to wait to see if it was going to pass me and accelerating on ice was not an option so braking from the trailer only was my choice. There were already a number of guys down in the ditch and worse that night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strong Farmer Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 23 minutes ago, AC+YA said: There was a wind blown snow to ice patch night coming down 127 when the wind kicked my trailer across into the other lane and it tried to pass me. It was like pulling the rip cord on a parachute when I slid the trailer brake lever all the way over and it all straightened out behind me. I did not want to wait to see if it was going to pass me and accelerating on ice was not an option so braking from the trailer only was my choice. There were already a number of guys down in the ditch and worse that night. Wow that’s impressive. Was trailer weighted down with sleds at the time too? I always hated pulling empty trailers since they bounce around more behind you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ox Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, AC+YA said: There was a wind blown snow to ice patch night coming down 127 when the wind kicked my trailer across into the other lane and it tried to pass me. It was like pulling the rip cord on a parachute when I slid the trailer brake lever all the way over and it all straightened out behind me. I did not want to wait to see if it was going to pass me and accelerating on ice was not an option so braking from the trailer only was my choice. There were already a number of guys down in the ditch and worse that night. I love my flatbed truck! Only issue I ever had was one time when I was passing a string of trailers headin' north and just as I got beside the rubber duck, mine came loose. All ended well, but there was quite a few rough seconds in there for us all... Parked in the bush and all.... Turned out that my 4wd actuator wasn't working, and I was in 2wd. Didn't even figger that out 'till the next summer. Edited July 15, 2020 by Ox 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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