revrnd Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 On 11/30/2015 at 8:16 AM, Blackstar said: A lot of the time I use a version of what Viperrules mentioned. I use a 3 ton floor jack to lift the sled and then I place milk crates under the skis. I have a rachet strap attached to a 4x4 that sits across my garage door tracks to lift the rear. If we're working on the front suspension we'll use our "Mar-lift". If not we'll use this lift: to lift the front end (placing milk crates under the skis), then using it to lift the rear of sled to the desired height. This lift is a copy of 1 that Bombi' used to sell thru it's service parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Techdenis007 Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Redneck lifting the alpine ... old bumper jack, axle stands and some cedar blocks .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proxrider Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 I'm leaning toward the TeamK-OS Lift. Looks solid, decent price. Anyone have any experience with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irv Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 Been using the Princess Auto lift now for more than a few years, and if it can hold up my Vector, it can hold up almost anything. I looked at the Royal Dist ones and the PA one is far superior in my opinion. (This was 3-4 years ago so maybe things have changed?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soupkids Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 If your handy with a welder and have dome time you can make on the same as the PA one. It would probably be cheaper to buy one than make one, but way more fun to make one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfish Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 the weak spot on those is the threaded rod that lifts and lowers the sled. Mine stripped the first season, and has been gathering dust in a corner of the shop for 2 years now! The plan is to replace the rod with a hydraulic ram, at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manotickmike Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Needs (needed?) grease perhaps. Mine did. My P.A. one is holding up fine so far. I found it on Kijiji, still in the box, for $100. Beats heck out of a sore back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sledjunk Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 After I stripped the threads in the jack on mine, I bought a similar trailer jack (5000#) from PA and welded the appropriate fittings to mount it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeXMAN Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 When I made my lift I bought the screw-jack stand from PA...the threads started to get hung up when using the 1/2 drill (600 rpm) to raise and lower it....The next screw-jack stand I bought was from TSC (made in USA sticker on it) and was $10 cheaper and works fine ..I think it was a Bulldog brand . It was less then $40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 On 11/12/2016 at 8:21 PM, soupkids said: If your handy with a welder and have dome time you can make on the same as the PA one. It would probably be cheaper to buy one than make one, but way more fun to make one. For those so inclined: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/SledLift/SledLift.htm I've built 2 of these. I found that the design is suited more for the older sleds. No issues lifting a ZX chassis 'doo but I had to rework it to lift my REV. Shorten the handle on the tongue jack so it would clear the bellypan & the support points need adjusting because of the difference balance point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Pussy Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 I built two of these. I gave away the first prototype. This one folds down totally flat. No screw to strip, just good old stainless aircraft cable. Note the black and green colour scheme. BP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 4 hours ago, Big Pussy said: Note the black and green colour scheme. BP Looks great (solid)! (apart from the colour scheme). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02Sled Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 14 minutes ago, Canuck said: Looks great (solid)! (apart from the colour scheme). colour scheme was the best part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 I've made some of those as well (for others). If you go this way, may sure you use a GOOD boat winch. The ones I used started to bend due to the tension @ a certain point if the travel. This was when the user was lifting a Grand Touring. There is a point in the travel where the winch is trying to pull the lift "forward" rather than "up". We haven't had any issues w/ the tongue jack, mind you we haven't lifted anything heavier than a LC ZX chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Pussy Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 This lift has had everything on it. The heaviest is a 95 Wildcat Touring. Lots of steel in that sled and added metal from fixing the frame and tunnel. Much heavier than those feather weight yellow machines. The angle bracing from the winch to the double cross bar makes the initial lift possible with out the frame bending. All pivot holes have 1/4" pipe welded across the 1x2 tubing. The insert is then drilled and tapped for the pivot bolts. Since the bolts don't go all the way through, the lift frame can lay flat. The lift blocks under the running boards can be removed and replaced with different blocks and moved forward or backward. There is also a slight hook inside the tunnel so the sled does not slide sideways. This was a good project to teach myself to TIG weld steel. Can't do aluminum though. BP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 BP, i wasn't the lift frame that was bending, it was the winch frame itself. It was going from this I_I to this / _\. After making a 2nd lift for myself (w/ the tongue jack) I sold my older 1 w/ the winch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Pussy Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 The winch on it was an old unit I was given off some old farm equipment. Must be OK. I though of buying a better one but now I won't bother. The first cable I tried was not stainless and was going to break so I scrapped it. I just kept using stronger materials I could find until it all worked. I think the best tooling is the stuff you make yourself. It's designed for the problem at hand. BP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 I probably under-estimated the winch when I bought them, figuring the winch rating close to sled weight should've been OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.