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Garage floor drain ???


Cat800ltd

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Hey guys, I'm in the process of building a new garage. Does anyone know the technicalities behind installing a floor drain into a garage? And what building code specifies? I just want one to place under the sled for when it melts in the winter.

Thanks, Fred

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Do not put a trap on it , it will freeze and break.

your best bet is to put the drain in and put a light coat of floor cement over it until your final inspection.

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Do not put a trap on it , it will freeze and break.

your best bet is to put the drain in and put a light coat of floor cement over it until your final inspection.

unfortunately true

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I'm not sure about code where you are.  I had 2 drains put in my summer home; they drain under some stone I had spread; there was no problem with my inspector here in NY.

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Do not put a trap on it , it will freeze and break.

your best bet is to put the drain in and put a light coat of floor cement over it until your final inspection.

X3 , the Gov doesnt want chemicals flowing out a pipe to the back yard or any drain systems 

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Best way to go is to put in a sump pit in a corner near where you want to park the sled and slope floor slightly towards the pit. I set mine up approx 4" below floor level. Never had an inspector say anything about a sump pit. Put in a receptacle in on the ceiling or high on the wall to plug pump in. Floor drains can clog up. Back up water back into the garage if not setup right too.

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And a sump can freeze!  Besides, where are you going to  pump the sump to?  M-M is right, this is a real can of worms in Ontario if it's gonna be inspected.  An ordinary house sump is just drainage water, no contamination.

 

 For what it's worth, I built mine 20 years ago before we had  inspections.  Floor slopes to the centre.   I did put a plastic catch basin and grate in, but my building is heated.  Drain line is 4" Big-O, running downhill to a ditch, but it still freezes once or twice a winter, near the building.  It's got a heat cable pulled thru that I can plug in for a short time to open it back up.  It works fine but my understanding is none of this would be legal today.  S-K is right, least aggravation would be to hide it until after inspections.

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If the garage floor is slightly above grade a pit works awesome! You would be surprised how long it takes to fill. If you heat the garage most of the time the water will drain into pit and evourprate back into the air. When I need to pump it out I just run the hose thru the door and pump it onto the ground, using a 30 foot plastic sump hose. Works good for the few times a year I need to pump it.

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And a sump can freeze!  Besides, where are you going to  pump the sump to?  M-M is right, this is a real can of worms in Ontario if it's gonna be inspected.  An ordinary house sump is just drainage water, no contamination.

 

 For what it's worth, I built mine 20 years ago before we had  inspections.  Floor slopes to the centre.   I did put a plastic catch basin and grate in, but my building is heated.  Drain line is 4" Big-O, running downhill to a ditch, but it still freezes once or twice a winter, near the building.  It's got a heat cable pulled thru that I can plug in for a short time to open it back up.  It works fine but my understanding is none of this would be legal today.  S-K is right, least aggravation would be to hide it until after inspections.

If the sump is frozen, then the sled isn't going to thaw and drip water anyways.  Air temp will freeze long before the sump will.

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It's do-able but there are some hurdles. OBC has provision for garage floor drains but only with special approval. They usually stipulate that you install an approved oil and grease interceptor.  Since you're building new, why not just get the correct slope on the floor?

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X3 , the Gov doesnt want chemicals flowing out a pipe to the back yard or any drain systems 

But they don't mind putting chemicals in the water we drink! Oh don't get me started!!!!!!

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If the sump is frozen, then the sled isn't going to thaw and drip water anyways.  Air temp will freeze long before the sump will.

and air temp will thaw well before the pit does 

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and air temp will thaw well before the pit does

My pit never freezes. I want to put one in my shop now too.

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The real trick is to use a wash stone base of 6". It Is cheaper then buying pit run and packing it for the concrete floor! Usually what I do is use pit run pack it real good and then do the final 6" in wash stone before pouring the floor. Then you can put in your put drill drainge holes in the bottom and sink it 4" below floor hit. I rarely have water in mine, since it just seeps thru the stone!

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Also great idea to put styrofoam under the floor to keep it from sweating. I would do a sandwich wall to for that reason.

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Also great idea to put styrofoam under the floor to keep it from sweating. I would do a sandwich wall to for that reason.

is there any thing you are not a expert on and don't know SH!t??

Give it a rest,(legal) floor drains need a 3 phase tank, to be legal. or a couple 45 gallon drums, and it all works in the end, 

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is there any thing you are not a expert on and don't know SH!t??

Give it a rest,(legal) floor drains need a 3 phase tank, to be legal. or a couple 45 gallon drums, and it all works in the end,

Put them in when I poured the floor and put a cover on them. Inspector never said a word about it. I know the regulations are changing all the time though.
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2012 I had my garage built in North Kawartha & there was no problem w/ the drain during the inspections. Pipe terminates in a little bed of drainage stone (covered w/ Typar). Plastic drain cover in the floor..

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Thanks for the feedback guys, some great suggestions and Insight. Thank you. I think ill just cover the drain and pour over. Deal with it after I inspected is finished.

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Fred  since I did,nt get the rebuild job I,m going to have to let Ray know to keep an eye on you . Ray is the locale inspector,. Don,t call it a drain , slush pit. 10 x 20 metal grate formed into concrete , roll the cat over it  drip dry . Ray my let it go .

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Haha... U build cold finger? No ones got the job yet. We're still in the deconstruction phase. I'm hoping insurance has the numbers this week, so we can proceed. Our designer sent in our first renderings this week. And the township rejected the size of the new garage unfortunately. I'm gonna contact the clerk and find out why the limitations and what I can do about them. I'm on 1.2 acres, and the new garage will still be 120' from street.

And... I've heard of Ray. Lol friend of mine is dealing with him on there renovation up in bloomingdale. And I'm pretty sure it was Ray who put a stop to my neighbours garage build. It's been at a stand still for the last few years unfortunately and is quite an eye sore.

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Haha... U build cold finger? No ones got the job yet. We're still in the deconstruction phase. I'm hoping insurance has the numbers this week, so we can proceed. Our designer sent in our first

renderings this week. And the township rejected

the size of the new garage unfortunately. I'm

gonna contact the clerk and find out why the

limitations and what I can do about them. I'm on

1.2 acres, and the new garage will still be 120'

from street.

And... I've heard of Ray. Lol friend of mine is dealing with him on there renovation up in bloomingdale. And I'm pretty sure it was Ray

who put a stop to my neighbours garage build.

It's been at a stand still for the last few years

unfortunately and is quite an eye sore.

Wilmot township sucks!

Last year when I was building my new broiler barn. Two weeks before the building was finished they asked if I was putting in a grain bin pad? I said no it is a feed bin paid. Anyways they held me up for two weeks because a grain bin pad requires a separate building permit, but not any rules about Feed bin pads. After going back and forth a few times they allowed it without a separate permit, but it had to be an engineered pad. Finally for it poured about 5 days before I needed it. Normally a garage that faces another building within 80 feet of property line requires a fire proof wall. Learned that rule last year.

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Lol... Should be interesting. With the garage side facing, there's a good 1000 ft to the next house. With it facing the road were looking at 500 ft. I just hope the clerk can answer some questions i for her tomorrow. And of course, I remain calm and civil.

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Lol... Should be interesting. With the garage side facing, there's a good 1000 ft to the next house. With it facing the road were looking at 500 ft. I just hope the clerk can answer some questions i

for her tomorrow. And of course, I remain calm

and civil.

Did you supply engineering drawings two copies to the building office? Sounds like you should have no issue's. They usually find something they don't like on the drawing and deny permit until it is clarified, that Is normal. If the drawing isn't to scale, denied. Had that happen to me last year.

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I went up to the township today to seek clarification on my limitations. Basically, the architects the insurance company is using screwed up. Now there drawing up the original plan I submitted to them. So, I'm back to getting my 35x25 garage side entrance. By township definitions I could theoretically go up to a 1600 sq ft garage. But I would be living in it. Lol. All is good again.

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