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Baylaker

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Just found a brand new hybrid for $5095. Ameralite...

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I would go with that before any tilt, IMO.

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Hybrids are not perfect. None of them are. They all have their own little things but I will take the hybrid over the clamshell any time. The only quirks I have found with the hybrid is that the rear door opening is about 2 inches narrower on each side than the full opening inside. I need the full inside width to put the sleds side by side. The skis touch each other and the plywood on the side walls. That means I need to lift the front end over about 2 inches when loading and unloading. I've seen too many people doing this when the sled is all the way in the trailer and they are busting a gut to do it. Especially on the 4 strokes. When the sled is in far enough that it is just beyond the balance point I stop the sled and lift up the now very light front end and move it over. Then I can pull it in the rest of the way with the skis against the side plywood or back it off the rest of the way with the skis far enough in from the edge of the ramp to avoid the cables for the lift assist of the ramp. The other thing I have found that at times when backing out the carbides can sometimes catch the edge of the ramp at the gap between the bed and the ramp. I have a piece of black plastic drain pipe I pop into the gap so the skis ride just slightly up at the gap and then settle down into the ski glides to come down the ramp without any catching possible. Even for an old guy it is painless and easy to load or unload.

 

The other thing I like about the hybrid is it gives me somewhere easy to put the boots and pants on. I've been in too many wet muddy parking lots trying to put the pants and boots on without getting everything covered in the muck. This weekend I went in the trailer, put the pants and boots on without worrying about maybe ending up with my sock foot in a bunch of mud.

 

The C channel that most of the hybrids have (make sure it runs front to rear) lets you clamp down real easy at the front and with the superclamp rings made for the C channel strap down at the rear

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Hybrids are not perfect. None of them are. They all have their own little things but I will take the hybrid over the clamshell any time. The only quirks I have found with the hybrid is that the rear door opening is about 2 inches narrower on each side than the full opening inside. I need the full inside width to put the sleds side by side. The skis touch each other and the plywood on the side walls. That means I need to lift the front end over about 2 inches when loading and unloading. I've seen too many people doing this when the sled is all the way in the trailer and they are busting a gut to do it. Especially on the 4 strokes. When the sled is in far enough that it is just beyond the balance point I stop the sled and lift up the now very light front end and move it over. Then I can pull it in the rest of the way with the skis against the side plywood or back it off the rest of the way with the skis far enough in from the edge of the ramp to avoid the cables for the lift assist of the ramp. The other thing I have found that at times when backing out the carbides can sometimes catch the edge of the ramp at the gap between the bed and the ramp. I have a piece of black plastic drain pipe I pop into the gap so the skis ride just slightly up at the gap and then settle down into the ski glides to come down the ramp without any catching possible. Even for an old guy it is painless and easy to load or unload.

The other thing I like about the hybrid is it gives me somewhere easy to put the boots and pants on. I've been in too many wet muddy parking lots trying to put the pants and boots on without getting everything covered in the muck. This weekend I went in the trailer, put the pants and boots on without worrying about maybe ending up with my sock foot in a bunch of mud.

The C channel that most of the hybrids have (make sure it runs front to rear) lets you clamp down real easy at the front and with the superclamp rings made for the C channel strap down at the rear

Geeze! Go back to work! You go too much time on your hands! Lol jk, thanks for the insight 02. I just called the guy and put down a $500 deposit on the trailer. SOLD! Picking It up 2 Saturdays from now. Was the cheapest one I could find. What an extra $500 more when your spending that much anyways? That's basically what it came down to for me. $4600 for triton clam or $5095 for ameralite hybrid. Kind of a no brainer. Thanks for all the suggestions fellas! Cheers!

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www-in-the-hunt.com

 

Ameralite Hybrid $5095.00

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Looks good. Just looked at their website. Did you get the side man door? It's nice to be able to get into the trailer without having to drop the ramp every time. The station I often fill up the sleds at have hoses long enough to fill them through the man door. I have a fuel door on the opposite side but have only used it twice. It was a pain having to move the truck and change pumps because the hose wouldn't reach far enough for the sled on the other side. The only other thing you may want to add since I don't see it in the pictures are vents on the side walls of the trailer. The rear stabilizer jacks will come in handy if you want to load or unload when it isn't hooked to a truck.

 

It'll be great for your summer storage. I usually throw an old bed sheet over them in the trailer for the summer just to keep them cleaner.

 

Congrats.

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www-in-the-hunt.com

Ameralite Hybrid $5095.00

That's the one

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Looks good. Just looked at their website. Did you get the side man door? It's nice to be able to get into the trailer without having to drop the ramp every time. The station I often fill up the sleds at have hoses long enough to fill them through the man door. I have a fuel door on the opposite side but have only used it twice. It was a pain having to move the truck and change pumps because the hose wouldn't reach far enough for the sled on the other side. The only other thing you may want to add since I don't see it in the pictures are vents on the side walls of the trailer. The rear stabilizer jacks will come in handy if you want to load or unload when it isn't hooked to a truck.

It'll be great for your summer storage. I usually throw an old bed sheet over them in the trailer for the summer just to keep them cleaner.

Congrats.

Yes it has side man door, front access door, ski tie downs, bearing buddies, spring assist etc. I found a company in oakville that sells 40' of ski guides for $140 tax in. And I'll probably just use my old enticer tracks for grip. Thanks again for the tips 02!

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There is a place in St Jacobs, King St N at Sawmill. they manufacture their own enclosed. Rainbow Mfg.519-664-2297. I priced last year and they were reasonable.

Have a real close look before buying a Rainbow. Don't get their lighting. They use very very cheap taillights (integral push in connectors unsealed) that you will swear at for 2 seasons then you will rewire the whole trailer properly with sealed beam rear lights. Structurally they are well made for a galvanized trailer. IMHO.
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Check out Bluewater Trailers, got a beauty last year.

Stand up with rear door/ramp and side door.

Sorry my pictures won't load here.

 

Saved at least $1000.

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Check out Bluewater Trailers, got a beauty last year.

Stand up with rear door/ramp and side door.

Sorry my pictures won't load here.

Saved at least $1000.

They want $5500.

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2013 Triton 11'. One year into it wiring in tongue crapped the bed. Season 2 back lights went. All fixed now. Amazing trailer. Tows like a dream. Had a Northland before that and thanks to them going out of business, couldn't find parts by end of they day. Drove hwy 11 last Sunday and Triton was the most make we saw. Their alright!

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Triton is a great trailer. But they can be expensive.

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Agreed on the price. And to have issues right out of the gate was crappy. All good now.

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I have owned only a Triton Trailer for the simple reason being resale value. When it comes time to upgrade your trailer you will understand why you bought a Triton. They are the most expensive trailer out there but there is a reason why and it is not the exchange on the dollar. 

When you compare the material, fit and finish others do not come close IMO.

 

Go to Scott Reinhart Trailers for advise as he sells all the different makes. 

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I have owned only a Triton Trailer for the simple reason being resale value. When it comes time to upgrade your trailer you will understand why you bought a Triton. They are the most expensive trailer out there but there is a reason why and it is not the exchange on the dollar. 

When you compare the material, fit and finish others do not come close IMO.

 

Go to Scott Reinhart Trailers for advise as he sells all the different makes. 

 

No doubt that Triton is a quality trailer. I wouldn't say that the others don't come close though. There are obviously some that are significantly less money and when you look close at all the factors you can see why. A lot of little things to look at like the frame size and material thickness, C channel or closed tube as an example. The others I found differences in were. The enclosure frame tubes, how far apart, their size and the number of cross braces joining them. Then the wiring and where it's routed. Lots to look at. I looked real hard and long actually getting under the trailers for a close look and found the Blizzard trailer made in Boone NY to be as good as the Triton and a bit of a savings from not paying for the name.

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I could not agree with you more 02sled. You really need a trailer "guy" to explain the differences and this will help justify the price differences. Buying a trailer is harder than buying a car when it comes to details and what to look for. We are more educated on cars than trailers.

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I have really enjoyed our new Triton this year and god knows it has gotten a lot of use this year. My only issue with it is that with the front flip up door when we get to our destination there is usually some spray/slush on them, we have been putting a old blanket on them now. The other thing I have noticed is we have had a couple of times the rear drop down door has frozen shut and needed to use a hammer/pry bar to unstick it. Maybe some of you guys can shed some light if you have this problem or what you have done to stop it from happening.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Nunz

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I have really enjoyed our new Triton this year and god knows it has gotten a lot of use this year. My only issue with it is that with the front flip up door when we get to our destination there is usually some spray/slush on them, we have been putting a old blanket on them now. The other thing I have noticed is we have had a couple of times the rear drop down door has frozen shut and needed to use a hammer/pry bar to unstick it. Maybe some of you guys can shed some light if you have this problem or what you have done to stop it from happening.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Nunz

 

I have only ever had the ramp door freeze up on me once and all I did was go inside and push from the inside to break it free. I have heard some people say they have used a "lubricant' on the rubber seal. Some have said a silicone based spray, WD40 and even vegetable oil. Can't say how well any of those work but it seems the idea is to stop water/ice from sticking to the rubber seal.

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Don't pry the door as you risk bending the aluminum frame and damaging the seal. Just pour some windshield washer along the top of the door seal and let it sit for a minute. The rubber seal is frozen to the frame. The windshield washer fluid will loosen it up. 

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Thanks guys for you advice, as always much appreciated.

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Yup some good tips here forsure!

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I spray the seals with silicone spray or Teflon spray. Since doing that no more stuck doors.

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