Big Pussy

The reverse actuator motor on the Procross 4-strokes is a passenger side Saturn power window regulator motor. Can get a replacement at NAPA, I'm told. Never needed one yet.

Economical Mutual does. I have it.

If the so called new high tech anti-theft solution is so good, then why are push to start vehicles disappearing from driveways all over the place ? Someone is so smart they're stupid.

Thanks.

Where is the fire lookout tower ? What local trail ?

I is easier to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission.

This was a local that I ride with every year.

I was there to witness a new yellow sled bought in Hearst on Valentines day. There was lots of grovelling with the boss back home.

Try a good old key ignition switch.

Two years ago, we bought 3 day passes a week ahead. Download a pdf of the permit. Put it on your phone. I printed the permit in living colour and then laminated it and taped it to the windshield with clear box tape. We came up behind the cops sitting at a T intersection. Of course they had to check out the passes. They were impressed with the preparation for their interogation. They take a picture of your license numbers and mail a ticket if you are not legal. You may never know if your buddy hot a ticket for his lack of left mirror.

That saver unit is trying to expand the shaft. It is actually deforming it into a triangular shape. I think it will eventually work loose and slde out of end of the driveshaft. That is why I used the key and keyway method. My shaft had some spinning happen. There were score marks on both ends. It took about 100 small hits with a center punch in rows to raise the metal all around the shaft. A new shaft and track drivers are over $700 for a 7000 with extrovert drivers. Enough that I did not want it to be destroyed.

Brackenreid first ate wings in Buffalo when the pub was out of chickens. The pub owner said those Canadians will eat garbage. Then gave him some sauce to make them taste better.

The right hand drive shafy bearing will also spin. I have a very similar fix with the tab key welded on the shaft shoulder and the keyway in the bearing facing in against the shoulder. Shim washers made to go between the sprocket and bearing to hold the bearing tight to the shoulder. All I ever do is re-design the mistakes of others. The sled is super reliable now. Pictures if you want them.

You should really, really take the brake caliper apart, and remove the rotor and check that the bearing inner race has not spun on the drive shaft. The bearing needs to have the seal removed, washed out and re-greased. This bearing is a slip fit on the shaft and WILL SPIN and destroy your driveshaft. That will require shaft assy. replacement or spray welding and machining the area back to a tight fit. My bearing was actually seized after being stored. I checked it and fixed it before my shaft was destroyed. I have developed a way to stop the bearing spinning. Grind a keyway in the edge of the inner race with a dremel tool and a 1/8" round end tungsten carbide rotary file. TIG weld a small tab on the side of the rotor hub to insert in the keyway on the edge of the bearing. Here is the bearing assembled in the caliper and on the shaft. The tab on the rotor needs to be filed until it fits in the keyway with the hub flat against the bearing. I also welded a 1" long plug in the hollow shaft. It is center drilled and tapped for a M10 bolt. Machined a cap to hold the rotor tight against the bearing, and the bearing against the inside circlip to stop radial sliding on the shaft. I can't find my picture of the cap assembled on the outside of the rotor. The outside snap ring is a pretty loose fit and allows the shaft to slide in and out which adds to the wear and tear. The guy who designed this needs his a$$ kicked all around the engineering office.

You must mean featherless.

I have a 2015 with the real Cat fixed pin clutch and secondary. Clean real good every spring. Check rollers for play in their bushings. Check for clearance on sliding buttons. Check for cam arm surface wear. Check the rollers and helix for wear in the secondary. I have 7500 km on the original belt and there is absolutely no need to change it. Everyone poo pooed those clutches but the are the best I have owned so far. My boy has the Team pair on a 2017. I can compare the difference over time.

I'm sure it will affect the start of the next resession once everyones pockets are shaken emty and there is no money to buy anything else.

Remember all those jobs in solar we were going to have from the Windbag government.

If you are looking for something legal in Quebec, go on Amazon and get a pair of replacement motorcycle mirrors. There are pairs that come with a split black cast aluminum handlebar mount. The mirror stalk screws into the mount. The mount clamps around standard 7/8" diameter bars. I mounted them just inside of the brake and throttle blocks. I believe the pair I bought for my sled was $20. Many styles to choose from. They all come from Wuhan. Since then, there are two more sleds in our group with the same Wuhan mirrors. The guy with the Doo won't put anything on his sled and he did get hastled in Quebec with his wrist mirror. His logic was when he has hold on the handlebar, the mirror is affixed to the sled. He never did admit if he got a ticket in the mail or not. Pictures available if you want to see them.

How does mid grade fuel just sit when there is no tank for mid grade fuel ?

Sent you a PM.

Did the bed shake like the bike ?

Why not replace the OEM relays from flux sealed to sonic welded sealed so they don't get moisture in them in the first place? Get them from Mouser dirt cheap about $4 each.

Boy that is a good way to fill the bottom of the belly pan with ice and maybe even freeze up the steering linkage. I did that once with my 1975 Dodge Coronet and froze the thottle open. Again all these last minute cures can be eliminated if some time and very little money is invested. Like I said above, very few people will do this. Most new sled buyers spend an extra $1000 on a real windshield, spare belt, saddle bags, glove boxes, power outlets, etc and never deal with the simple fix to ensure the engine will start and not drain the battery trying. In the end, you mostly need an outlet anyway.

I have a sure fire way to guarantee the engine will start without the usual tearing off of panels and using hair driers but it includes you having to dig down into the engine bay far enough to get to the bottom of the oil sump pan or the front or back side of the engine block. Most everyone on here would not do that. But they would rather piss away the time outside the hotel with hair driers, space heaters, boost boxes, and maybe even lighting a fire. They also say they have never had a problem either. I have witnessed a few. Even 800 2-strokes that they could not crank/pull. I learned a lot riding a 2001 Thundercat in the far north. If you are interested, let me know.