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Snowmobiling Engineering Wonders...


AkronOrange

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I'll start:

 

I wonder why:

 

My Arctic Cat fuel tank takes more fuel when uphill and my buddy's Ski-Doo takes more fuel when down hill...

 

My Cat fuel gauge reads empty when there are 4 gallons left in the tank...

 

Arctic Cat key location, it's horizontal on the consol.  Sometimes, it's snowy and icy when you're snowmobiling...

 

Snow flaps and reverse, need I say more...

 

 

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SOOOooooo ..... you lovin' that sled Bob ?  Lucky it didn't make a weenie roast event for you .... those are popular among Cat .... 

 

How about building an engine you can remove from the frame, WITHOUT taking the exhaust & carb boots off of it ...... or put the stator wiring on the FRONT of the engine block, like, where it connects to the ECM anyway ?

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an anti freeze drain would be nice as well as access to the coolant reservoir and rad cap lets add in access to the fuse for the heated helmet cord or even why is it that a rider forward sled must have a jigsaw puzzle hood?

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greaseable jackshaft and drive bearings on my 2010 500 sno pro would have been nice. 

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X2 on the snow flap/reverse and greasable jackshaft bearings.

on the yamys absolutely the newer series cats do not seem to have bearing issues lots of diamond drive issues though snowflaps have mostly been solved on the yamacats and cats by using a slightly longer tunnel 

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SOOOooooo ..... you lovin' that sled Bob ?  Lucky it didn't make a weenie roast event for you .... those are popular among Cat .... 

 

How about building an engine you can remove from the frame, WITHOUT taking the exhaust & carb boots off of it ...... or put the stator wiring on the FRONT of the engine block, like, where it connects to the ECM anyway ?

I do love this sled.  I got about 17 mpg on the trip and the OPP's were kind enough to remind me it has more power than I need.  It's just some of those little issues that make me wonder "What were they thinking?"

 

On our trips we also had numerous issues with the Ski-Doo accessories; heated shield on a new modular helmet, all kind of Ski-Doo baggage problems etc.

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were they an issue? 

replaced both bearings twice and only have 3400 miles on the sled

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Some people may prefer the 'lift the hood style' but I have really grown on the idea of different panels. Makes maintenance easy as I can take off 2 panels on my sled and the entire side of the sled accessible. Battery, oil changes, chain case access, coolant fill/drain, fuses/relays all accessible with the removal of panels. I actually don't like working on the T660 touring compared to my phazer, at all lol. few quarter turn fasteners and a 3 bolts and everything on that side is accessible.

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the stupid hood panels on the newer sleds :Drinking2::furious3:

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X2 on the snow flap/reverse and greasable jackshaft bearings.

The Indy Classics my folks ride have a greasable jackshaft. Remove the belt, loosen the secondary bolt & pull the secondary outboard. Easy access to the grease fitting. Probably takes all of 15 minutes to service.

 

I wonder who the idgit was that "styled" the RH side panel on the REVs? Last Tues' breaking trail into our woodlot. I noticed the RH footwell getting filled w/ snow. When I opened the side panel, the whole area around the battery was full of snow. Since I was going thru about a foot & a half of powder, the snow was getting "underhood" via a vent low in the panel.

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The Indy Classics my folks ride have a greasable jackshaft. Remove the belt, loosen the secondary bolt & pull the secondary outboard. Easy access to the grease fitting. Probably takes all of 15 minutes to service.

 

I wonder who the idgit was that "styled" the RH side panel on the REVs? Last Tues' breaking trail into our woodlot. I noticed the RH footwell getting filled w/ snow. When I opened the side panel, the whole area around the battery was full of snow. Since I was going thru about a foot & a half of powder, the snow was getting "underhood" via a vent low in the panel.

 

but the original Rev panels are so easy to work with like the 84-99 Phazers

 

I can NOT stand snapping in my panels on my IQ chassis and the new Rush style panels are a joke too as are the Nytros

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I am not familiar with the panels on the Nytro. The new Phazers I find quite easy. The beauty with the yamaha sled is that you barely have to ever take them apart in my experience lol.

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Just trim about 2" off the bottom of the Yammy flap.

Don't try that w/ a REV, not sure about the newer BRP models. 

 

I cut the tattered lower edge off my flap & had cooling issues afterwards.

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Get rid of all the Phillips screws and replace them with socket heads or Robertsons. What is this fascination with such an inferior product?

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on the yamys absolutely the newer series cats do not seem to have bearing issues lots of diamond drive issues though snowflaps have mostly been solved on the yamacats and cats by using a slightly longer tunnel 

New cats do not have a diamond drive. My sled has a diamond drive never had a bearing issue with it on the brake side and the DD has the original seals and bearing on it, it has 47,000 km on it, not a typo, 47000. The issues people have with a DD is that they fail to care for it properly.

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New cats do not have a diamond drive. My sled has a diamond drive never had a bearing issue with it on the brake side and the DD has the original seals and bearing on it, it has 47,000 km on it, not a typo, 47000. The issues people have with a DD is that they fail to care for it properly.

true and not true 90% of diamond drive failures are maintenance related however they were a weak link in that if everything was not perfect they have catastrophic failures early designs like the 900 parts are no longer available for and failed at the joint with the axle 

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true and not true 90% of diamond drive failures are maintenance related however they were a weak link in that if everything was not perfect they have catastrophic failures early designs like the 900 parts are no longer available for and failed at the joint with the axle 

All parts for all year DD's are still available.

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