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Clutch Maintenance


signfan

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Just getting into maintenance mode on the sleds.  Both brp 900 ace engines with the edrive primaries.  The 2014 has 28,000 km on it and the 2016 has 16,000 km on it.  What maintenance should I be doing to the clutches on these sleds if any?  To my knowledge neither of them have ever been touched.  We've owned both of them for about the last 10,000 km.  I'm not looking for any performance changes.  Just after reliability so I can run another 10,000 km on them without fail.  I'm already doing the drivelines (all bearings, sliders, a few new bogie wheels, etc) chaincase fluids and obviously the motor oil.  Maybe break pads as well if the pads are wore.  I've never worked on clutches, but am fairly handy.  Any advice would be appreciated.

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5 hours ago, signfan said:

Just getting into maintenance mode on the sleds.  Both brp 900 ace engines with the edrive primaries.  The 2014 has 28,000 km on it and the 2016 has 16,000 km on it.  What maintenance should I be doing to the clutches on these sleds if any?  To my knowledge neither of them have ever been touched.  We've owned both of them for about the last 10,000 km.  I'm not looking for any performance changes.  Just after reliability so I can run another 10,000 km on them without fail.  I'm already doing the drivelines (all bearings, sliders, a few new bogie wheels, etc) chaincase fluids and obviously the motor oil.  Maybe break pads as well if the pads are wore.  I've never worked on clutches, but am fairly handy.  Any advice would be appreciated.

Yikes. You might need new rollers and pins for safety sakes. A good brp dealer can check it over and replace pins, rollers. Haven’t done four stroke yet, but did etec at 10,000 km’s. Cost was around 350 or so including labour.  Parts about half that and comes in a kit. If there are any physical crackers better to get a new clutch. Good luck. 

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Springs definately should be replaced.  Clean clutch faces, and primary blow out all the belt dust etc.

 

check belt tension once all cleaning is done and adjust accordingly.

 

Definately check over buttons and rollers.

 

Probably time for a new belt if it has not been changed.

 

Check you tube I'm sure there are some great videos for your specific model.

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I can't speak about Doo clutches but on Poo and Yammies, I find that I get tremendous clutch life if I remove the belt and thoroughly clean both clutches with good quality Brake Clean every 1000 km or so. It's very easy to do and definetly extends clutch life. 

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WOW!

 

Maybe the newer TRA's are better than the old ones?

 

I have not been into my new one yet, but the old ones will be a rattlin' by 10K at least!

Does your "motor" rattle when at idle?

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On the topic of clutch mtce, are there a few maintenance items i should be performing? 2017 ZR6000 w/6000km.  I'm also removing the gear case cover for an inspection and oil change, check track tension, etc.

 

Swapped the belt at about 5000k and now using it as the spare - had no signs of wear really.

 

TIA<

 

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9 hours ago, Puggz said:

On the topic of clutch mtce, are there a few maintenance items i should be performing? 2017 ZR6000 w/6000km.  I'm also removing the gear case cover for an inspection and oil change, check track tension, etc.

 

Swapped the belt at about 5000k and now using it as the spare - had no signs of wear really.

 

TIA<

 

Those team clutches hold up good. I had the same sled from new and had the clutches cleaned at 4000km and put another 10000km trouble free on it before i sold it. Never blew a belt either. Still had the original as a spare.

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21 hours ago, Puggz said:

On the topic of clutch mtce, are there a few maintenance items i should be performing? 2017 ZR6000 w/6000km.  I'm also removing the gear case cover for an inspection and oil change, check track tension, etc.

 

Swapped the belt at about 5000k and now using it as the spare - had no signs of wear really.

 

TIA<

 

I have a 2015 with the real Cat fixed pin clutch and secondary.  Clean real good every spring.  Check rollers for play in their bushings. Check for clearance on sliding buttons.  Check for cam arm surface wear.  Check the rollers and helix for wear in the secondary.  I have 7500 km on the original belt and there is absolutely no need to change it.

Everyone poo pooed those clutches but the are the best I have owned so far.  My boy has the Team pair on a 2017.  I can compare the difference over time.

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36 minutes ago, Big Pussy said:

I have a 2015 with the real Cat fixed pin clutch and secondary.  Clean real good every spring.  Check rollers for play in their bushings. Check for clearance on sliding buttons.  Check for cam arm surface wear.  Check the rollers and helix for wear in the secondary.  I have 7500 km on the original belt and there is absolutely no need to change it.

Everyone poo pooed those clutches but the are the best I have owned so far.  My boy has the Team pair on a 2017.  I can compare the difference over time.

I think from a wear point of view you are correct.  The team primary clutch has the bearing and is promoted as a better system, but I never had a true Arctic Cat clutch wear out and stop shifting/get hung up as my team clutch did.  I never did any real maintenance on my Cat clutches and saw many roll past 16,000 miles (not kilometers).  I was pretty surprised when my knock sensor started throwing a code due to my worn Team clutch on my 2018 XF-8000 around 16K miles..  I was on a tour in Quebec.  I was using premium and could not understand why.  It only took a couple more days and the clutch stopped returning to its idle position without using a rubber mallet normally reserved for under-skid ice removal.  Found a dealer along the way after a day of trying not to slow and even jumping across roads when others had gone ahead to verify no traffic was coming.  I had to kill the engine to stop as it would not disengage.

With the new clutch the machine was again like new and the knock sensor never through the code again. 

I will never go past 12,000 miles on a team primary clutch again.  There is no good way to rebuild it and so a new clutch is in the future of my 2019 XF-8000 which this year should get to that point depending on arrival of the spring snow check and whether or not my daughter has time to get away during her clinicals.  She may not be riding much this season.    

Gaspe7.jpg

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Thanks everyone, I'll have a look and give it a good cleaning before I hit the trails :)

 

 

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On 10/26/2021 at 12:23 AM, signfan said:

Just getting into maintenance mode on the sleds.  Both brp 900 ace engines with the edrive primaries.  The 2014 has 28,000 km on it and the 2016 has 16,000 km on it.  What maintenance should I be doing to the clutches on these sleds if any?  To my knowledge neither of them have ever been touched.  We've owned both of them for about the last 10,000 km.  I'm not looking for any performance changes.  Just after reliability so I can run another 10,000 km on them without fail.  I'm already doing the drivelines (all bearings, sliders, a few new bogie wheels, etc) chaincase fluids and obviously the motor oil.  Maybe break pads as well if the pads are wore.  I've never worked on clutches, but am fairly handy.  Any advice would be appreciated.

BRP has kits for primary clutches. With the Ks on them I would do springs, rollers & pins in the secondary. There is lot of videos on you tube. Just make sure you are watching the right year for your sled. I know the way they lock the pins in the secondary changed over the years. You will also need some clutch tools. A lot of the parts are wear, springs get weak & loose performance or break.& the rollers in the secondary just blow apart. 

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On 10/26/2021 at 12:23 AM, signfan said:

Just getting into maintenance mode on the sleds.  Both brp 900 ace engines with the edrive primaries.  The 2014 has 28,000 km on it and the 2016 has 16,000 km on it.  What maintenance should I be doing to the clutches on these sleds if any?  To my knowledge neither of them have ever been touched.  We've owned both of them for about the last 10,000 km.  I'm not looking for any performance changes.  Just after reliability so I can run another 10,000 km on them without fail.  I'm already doing the drivelines (all bearings, sliders, a few new bogie wheels, etc) chaincase fluids and obviously the motor oil.  Maybe break pads as well if the pads are wore.  I've never worked on clutches, but am fairly handy.  Any advice would be appreciated.

Agreed with @RotaxMike s post.  Great device there...

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