Jump to content

Single axle hybrid trailers reviews


Sksman

Recommended Posts

This was the result of missing front bolt and rough spring road into cottage. Had two sleds loaded.

Resized_20190515_163815.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/3/2019 at 8:40 PM, revrnd said:

YIKES!

 

I wonder if using teflon or nylatron sheet would be more durable? Is the Triton 'gasket' just rubber? 

Probably, my buddy replaced his with something similar to nylatron and grade 8 bolts. I used what Triton has as a kit, looks like a rubber product to me. Triton distributor seems more confident in this fix.

  Nunz keep an eye on yours, you travel a lot.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Blake G said:

I believe the Bullitt's floor channel is thinner than Triton's, and Superclamp's little hook thingy wouldn't fit.

 

I paid Action Trailer a few bucks to install 8 D rings in the floor, carefully positioned so I can be outside the trailer - - to strap down the front of one sled via the front access door, and the front of the second sled via the side door.

Strange - my hook thingy took a bit of aligning but eventually fastened tight with the correct hook orientation. I purchased the anchor strip for the rear superclamp as wasn't sure where each rear end would end up with two machines. Guess you could also use the regular bolt hook up through the floor - but you have already conquered the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/4/2019 at 7:49 AM, Sksman said:

 

i was looking at the Bullet before.  It’s amazing the price difference between Bullet, SnoPro and Triton.  I guess different aluminum panels?

 

It looks like the Bullit is constructed in two phases - the base 7 X 16 trailer - upon which the top  superstructure has later been mounted. (results in exposed floor at the leading edge) One base size  trailer can be used for several model applications at the factory. According to spec sheets, material thicknesses etc. are similar. The Bullit has more supporting material than the TC167, if you check out the interior and fender mountings up close. Accessories which are included in the Bullit are going to put the price of the TC167 over $10,000. before tax.

 

I am thinking, much like Toyota for instance, that you are also paying extra for the legend of reliability. After 6 years of ownership of a 2009 Tacoma that did not have one minute of ownership without something being wrong with it (actually came out ahead on an extended warranty bought at a discount in the U.S. and same for a 2008 Corolla*) pay little heed to marketing BS and do as much inspection and research as I can myself.

 

*2004 Echo continues to run flawlessly and even fixes itself sometimes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doing a bit of work on the Bullit trailer yesterday - after above discussion on metal rot between trailer and axle on Triton, decided to take a closer look. Posting pics of the axle / frame junction for the Bullit - looks very servicable.

381449434_IMG_3951(Medium).thumb.JPG.529df06842a0f6ad6166fc19473e9128.JPG

 

Good  thick piece of nylon looking fiber between the axle and frame mount. The way the mount to frame is constructed, it is easy to check the condition of the area in relation to aluminum or steel degrading. On my Triton, the mount is made on a long channel of aluminum sistered to the main frame - the only way to tell if corrosion is evident for sure is to remove the axle to inspect. Pretty good idea here.....easy to check the anchoring bolts.

 

1667301229_IMG_3954(Medium).thumb.JPG.aebccd8fc91e5796b1d4d444805d5374.JPG

 

A couple of ideas to pass along.....it you don't like rusty safety chains, get yea to Canadian Tire and pick up a couple of bicycle inner tubes - make sure they are the flat resistant product - says right on them. The flat resistant are thicker rubber, are cold resistant as opposed to regular thickness and work great. Slide the rubber over your chain after removal and then refasten. I have had these installed for a couple of years - the ends of the chain rust a bit, but the rest of the chain is protected. A bit of Corrosion Free undercoating - the best on the market - adds protection and the inner tube keeps it from thinner during bad weather. (4 pin wiring is to hook up to battery to check trailer wiring)

 

194489888_IMG_3955(Medium).thumb.JPG.32066a8d27bd8f7aa21c50d2ddcf2e9d.JPG

 

 A couple of years ago, used a few around the home items to make a cheap cover for the 7 pin connector - usually the first thing to start rotting when salt is evident.

 

2123269859_IMG_3956(Medium).thumb.JPG.66ccc91334f4729ece714aa00c2e9558.JPG

 

And finally, a pic for Blake - the Superclamp hook - not sure why yours would not work

 

1935677086_IMG_3962(Medium).thumb.JPG.af152058fa3313a09e1255b96cefa4e2.JPG

 

Maybe check the model number of the hook? - 2200 T style Deck Hook - SKU for RD - 12-34400-02 Sometimes available at Canadian Tire or Princess Auto on sale.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, slomo said:

And finally, a pic for Blake - the Superclamp hook - not sure why yours would not work

 

1935677086_IMG_3962(Medium).thumb.JPG.af152058fa3313a09e1255b96cefa4e2.JPG

 

Maybe check the model number of the hook? - 2200 T style Deck Hook - SKU for RD - 12-34400-02 Sometimes available at Canadian Tire or Princess Auto on sale.

Thank you, slomo.

 

I'll put a man on it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, slomo said:

Doing a bit of work on the Bullit trailer yesterday - after above discussion on metal rot between trailer and axle on Triton, decided to take a closer look. Posting pics of the axle / frame junction for the Bullit - looks very servicable.

381449434_IMG_3951(Medium).thumb.JPG.529df06842a0f6ad6166fc19473e9128.JPG

 

Good  thick piece of nylon looking fiber between the axle and frame mount. The way the mount to frame is constructed, it is easy to check the condition of the area in relation to aluminum or steel degrading. On my Triton, the mount is made on a long channel of aluminum sistered to the main frame - the only way to tell if corrosion is evident for sure is to remove the axle to inspect. Pretty good idea here.....easy to check the anchoring bolts.

 

1667301229_IMG_3954(Medium).thumb.JPG.aebccd8fc91e5796b1d4d444805d5374.JPG

 

A couple of ideas to pass along.....it you don't like rusty safety chains, get yea to Canadian Tire and pick up a couple of bicycle inner tubes - make sure they are the flat resistant product - says right on them. The flat resistant are thicker rubber, are cold resistant as opposed to regular thickness and work great. Slide the rubber over your chain after removal and then refasten. I have had these installed for a couple of years - the ends of the chain rust a bit, but the rest of the chain is protected. A bit of Corrosion Free undercoating - the best on the market - adds protection and the inner tube keeps it from thinner during bad weather. (4 pin wiring is to hook up to battery to check trailer wiring)

 

194489888_IMG_3955(Medium).thumb.JPG.32066a8d27bd8f7aa21c50d2ddcf2e9d.JPG

 

 A couple of years ago, used a few around the home items to make a cheap cover for the 7 pin connector - usually the first thing to start rotting when salt is evident.

 

2123269859_IMG_3956(Medium).thumb.JPG.66ccc91334f4729ece714aa00c2e9558.JPG

 

And finally, a pic for Blake - the Superclamp hook - not sure why yours would not work

 

1935677086_IMG_3962(Medium).thumb.JPG.af152058fa3313a09e1255b96cefa4e2.JPG

 

Maybe check the model number of the hook? - 2200 T style Deck Hook - SKU for RD - 12-34400-02 Sometimes available at Canadian Tire or Princess Auto on sale.

 

 

 

 

 

Wow, Slomo you are one .....uh...... thorough dude.

 

I've had an aluminum enclosed trailer for 10 years now and I don't think I've ever looked underneath it......lol

 

I was thinking maybe I should change out the tires this fall since I've only ever changed one due to a blow out. That was 6-7 years ago.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Blackstar said:

 

Wow, Slomo you are one .....uh...... thorough dude.

 

I've had an aluminum enclosed trailer for 10 years now and I don't think I've ever looked underneath it......lol

 

 

Not too hard to do........I have the trailer resting on its frame while I use it as a work space for my new to me snowmobile....and passing on some observations. I have it on good authority that Triton was interested in how this trailer compared to their similar offering. I have to say, appreciated some of the comments in this thread that are based on fact or evidence - as opposed to those channeling their inner Craig Nicholson - particularly the dangers of aluminum and ferrous metal contact. Not sure how PLC's idea of a sacrificial anode would work as I think the anode has to be immersed in water to work, but good thinking nevertheless. 

 

Might help out someone like myself who does not go into debt for toys (unless 0% interest rate or similar) and wants to save 3 - 4 thousand dollars.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The aluminum weld quality leaves a lot to be desired.  Looks like it was made with a spool gun and not a Fronius CMT welding system.  Maybe the weld will break before the channel corrodes through.

 

One of the mounting brackets on my Toy Carrier axle (same axle as used on Triton) broke beside the weld at bracket to axle joint in the heat affected zone.  This caused more sway than normal and if left unchecked, would result in an axle leaving the trailer.  It was welded and got through the winter.  Needs checking again.   The moral of the story is to do a good summer check over to avoid the tears on the side of the road and ride home on a flat bed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Big Pussy said:

The aluminum weld quality leaves a lot to be desired.  Looks like it was made with a spool gun and not a Fronius CMT welding system.  Maybe the weld will break before the channel corrodes through.

 

One of the mounting brackets on my Toy Carrier axle (same axle as used on Triton) broke beside the weld at bracket to axle joint in the heat affected zone.  This caused more sway than normal and if left unchecked, would result in an axle leaving the trailer.  It was welded and got through the winter.  Needs checking again.   The moral of the story is to do a good summer check over to avoid the tears on the side of the road and ride home on a flat bed.

 

Good explanation of that process and some applications here for those curious types:

 

https://www.wileymetal.com/what-is-cold-metal-transfer-and-is-it-more-efficient-than-mig/

 

Out of curiousity, I am going to look at that area further to see if the structure could be improved by physical joint - an ounce of prevention etc. Be looking at my Triton more closely as well.

 

 

 

 

Edited by slomo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

 

Enjoying this thread. Lots of good info on the trailers.Thanks Slomo for posting things that you did or did not like on your trailer and posting how you made little changes to make it your own.This info hopefully will help people make a better informed decision when purchasing a new trailer. And like BP said "do a good summer check over to avoid frustration when you are needing your trailer".Keep the good tips coming.:) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picked up a 2 year old 8x12’ Mission trailer at the end of the season. Towed well empty but much more wind drag than my old 8x10’ clam shell Triton. 

I like this modification the previous owner made to prevent the skis hitting the door frame. 

B6039EE6-C33F-4C46-A190-D109E21A3147.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, yamadan700 said:

Picked up a 2 year old 8x12’ Mission trailer at the end of the season. Towed well empty but much more wind drag than my old 8x10’ clam shell Triton. 

I like this modification the previous owner made to prevent the skis hitting the door frame. 

B6039EE6-C33F-4C46-A190-D109E21A3147.jpeg

Good idea on saving the sides of your trailer. Just a thought.You could also use those pockets to hold extra bottles of oil, spare drive belt,spare skags,sliders or tie down straps..Just my 02 cents..

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

With most of the pre-season maintenance and upgrades done, both sleds are now trail ready and in the trailer - here's how they fit - 137 " track in first, 129" next, (although can switch the order) and plenty of room for gas cans, and other accessories. Machines should be close as possible to the trailer walls for best fit of ski hold downs.

 

pic01.thumb.JPG.a51fff55057323b89df4f864a58c9701.JPG

 

Extra door comes in handy

pic02.thumb.JPG.7933f735d9d303324b6a40bb2b786bab.JPG

 

Experimental ramp door art

1482935769_doorart.JPG.50327c4eb093b55504f804428550fccc.JPG

 

Thanks to 02sled for the 2 inch ABS pipe trick at the top of the ramp. (1 1/2 inch works fines as well)

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just picked up a used 2017 Mission trailer this week.

7 1/2’ x 16’

Towed nice heading north to cottage.   Next weekend will start the clean up and check everything over.

 

8A4646C8-E679-4FAE-8370-9DD23DB42AD0.jpeg

B159A7D2-6EF1-493C-B8BD-B198A23BA118.jpeg

Edited by Sksman
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Thought I might resurrect this thread.  Slomo what are your thoughts on your trailer after a seasons use?  Did you have any issues with it?  Been doing my own comparison between the Bullit and the TC167.  Are they the same height and width?  Or is the Triton slightly larger?  Do you ever use the front door that isn't available on the Triton?  How do you find the ramp to drive on and off?  Noticed they don't have the end of the door cut down on an angle to facilitate the skis getting on it the way the Triton does.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe both are the same length and width, 7 x 16.

 

I chose the the Bullit because it has a much lower roof than the Triton TC167. I think that's why it's called Bullit. (They may have changed the name from Bullit to Bullet after the first year?) You need to duck your head the whole time you're inside (I remove my helmet and wear a ball cap inside my Bullit), but the payoff is that towing the Bullit is much easier, due to reduced wind resistance. I also have a 6 x 10 Wells Cargo trailer, with 6 feet interior height, that weighs about the same as my Bullit. The 8 speed Ram gets 3 mpg better towing the Bullit, and cruises about one gear higher.

 

I use the front door to secure the front of the first sled, and sometimes to load or unload gear such as gas cans.

 

There is no issue with skis going from the ground onto the Bullitt ramp BUT there is a definite issue with the exposed thin wood on the ramp door. More than once my carbides cut right through the plywood when I missed the ski guides. My trailer is a 2019, so perhaps the issue was corrected in the next model year. Otherwise I'd say the trailer is very well built.

 

The other downfall with the Bullit is the lack of a dealer network, with Action Trailers being the sole Ontario dealer.

 

I feel the Bullit was right for me, due to the ease of towing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply blake.  What are we talking difference in height?  5" - 6"?   

 

Anyone running superclamp rear in these style of trailers?  Do they work as well as in a clamshell?  Or are they a pain to get lined up properly with the tighter quarters between sleds?

 

Also was wondering would there be enough room in the trailer for 2 - 137" sleds plus a snow skoot?  And maybe a pelican toboggan?  We ride into our cottage (no plowed road) and it would be a huge time saver to bring the toboggan home and load and unload it as opposed to leaving it at the lake which means an extra trip of several miles to get it at 8pm on a Friday night.   Looking ahead and I can see the sno scoot for the kids in our future.  Just not sure if this trailer fits the bill or if I need to go to a v-nose.  Really don't want to get into something that is huge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interior height:

Triton TC167 is 65.25 inches (internet)

Wells Cargo is 71.25 inches

Bullit is 58 inches

Door openings are a few inches less.

 

I'll take some pictures.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, snowchopper said:

Thanks for the report.:right_on:  Could you easily load your motorcycle in the trailer ?

Doubtful. I think the door opening would be too low.

Edited by Blake G
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, signfan said:

Thanks for the reply blake.  What are we talking difference in height?  5" - 6"?   

 

Anyone running superclamp rear in these style of trailers?  Do they work as well as in a clamshell?  Or are they a pain to get lined up properly with the tighter quarters between sleds?

 

Also was wondering would there be enough room in the trailer for 2 - 137" sleds plus a snow skoot?  And maybe a pelican toboggan?  We ride into our cottage (no plowed road) and it would be a huge time saver to bring the toboggan home and load and unload it as opposed to leaving it at the lake which means an extra trip of several miles to get it at 8pm on a Friday night.   Looking ahead and I can see the sno scoot for the kids in our future.  Just not sure if this trailer fits the bill or if I need to go to a v-nose.  Really don't want to get into something that is huge.

signfan, in response to your question above in bold, I've had a TC-167 for 8 years, and use both front and rear Superclamps on two sleds with no difficulty.  The trick is to clamp down the front end of the front sled first, then move the back end of that sled over tight to the right wall, and set up your rear clamp on that front sled in a spot where it won't be in the way of the right ski of the rear sled.  You can then load the rear sled and do the same thing with it...clamp the skis down first, then lift the back end over to the right, and clamp the skid down on the left side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57.3 inches is the official Goldwing height. Bullit trailer inside is 58 inches. Door frame is lower.

 

I suppose one could remove the bike's windshield, but it would be tough to get the bike inside when you have only 4' 10" of head room to try and stand up. I use my Wells Cargo with 6' interior for the rare times I need to trailer my bike.

 

I would say a Bullit would be poorly suited for transporting a Harley, if that's what your contemplating. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...