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Looking for ideas... Rigging a new trailer


Puggz

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If it's worth anything....I left my floor board open. That way it dries out faster. I leave the trailer open whilst I'm home to let air in, then when I have to go out I close the door. :wtf:    This has been 7 years and the wood is still good but faded.

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43 minutes ago, snapper said:

Like O2 stated, moisture under the stall mats would be a problem. Line- X would eliminate that problem. Don't know the cost of doing a trailer.

I have found with the stall mat cut into strips the same width as the track there doesn't seem to be a problem with moisture getting trapped and not drying out. I've checked a couple of times over the years and I don't know whether it's the Thompsons water seal or the narrow mats or both but it isn't a problem. One thing I forgot though was whatever you do don't run caulking around the edges of the rubber mat. Someone who did that thought it would seal moisture out when in reality it actually trapped some in.

 

The stall mats usually have small grooves in them about an inch or so apart that allows air to move

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1 hour ago, johnsazzr said:

another cheap thought if you have plywood walls...pick up a couple of dollar store plastic coat hooks...very handy to hang a winter coat while prepping for your ride,  a bag of tools or just about anything....

Me Like!

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58 minutes ago, snapper said:

Like O2 stated, moisture under the stall mats would be a problem. Line- X would eliminate that problem. Don't know the cost of doing a trailer.

$900 incl. the door.

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Cheap and easy. Plastic lattice from a building store. I lined my ramp and floors with 4 x 8 sheets whole and cut down. Floor will stay dry. I used regular size lattice. Privacy had smaller wholes. Sled just glides in. 

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We keep our helmets and sledding clothes in the trailer and get dressed inside after unloading sleds. A major pain was condensation dripping on clothes and also sleds. 

To alleviate we put purple moisture resistant 1/2 inch insulation in between the ceiling ribs ; cured it completely. 

A715AD67-E4EB-4E32-9571-C0AB3EB407BD.jpeg

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For your helmets, here's an idea I saw in a warm up shed in New Brunswick last year - if you've got a bit of heat in the trailer, open spaces will allow air flow. Drop by your local conveniece store after hours......or Ikea.....

 

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I bought a ski clamp, and promptly sold it.

I use a ratchet strap across the front knuckles, to D rings slightly aft of the knuckles. Holds the sled back and down better than the bar ever did.

Same thing out back, just throw the strap over the track, just enough tension to hold the skid down and keep it centered.

There's  ski glides up the sides, and a 3x4' x 1/2" rubber mat (Costco, Home Depot, TSC) cut in half to make a 18" X 48" track bed.  I hose the floor with preservative every year when I convert it from being a bike carrier into a sled carrier.

2 things I plan to do over the next while, run an outlet bar into the trailer from the tongue for a 110v connection, and bore a hole for the exhaust from my (1200w) generator so I can run it inside the trailer. It'd provide heat, and power when I don't have easy access to 110. 

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I just did  a trailer this past Fall.  I sealed the floor 3 times with floor paint from Homedepot. I bought the sliders from Princess at 20 bucks per 8’ piece. The Center  mats are from homedepot too they were 4’x4’ and I just cut in half. I think they were 20 bucks as well. I put an eyelet in each corner for strapping and ski guard from royal as well. 

I built a counter and storage in the front v nose which has been amazing for storage and getting ready to ride. I also put 4 separate hooks on the walls for the suits and such. 

For some reason, I can’t seem to upload the pics....

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22 hours ago, Puggz said:

$900 incl. the door.

I did mine cost 600 at the time. Still need ski guides or linex will get chewed up with carbides. Just looks ugly.,

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We cut up old pick-up bed liners. A cut up old snowmobile track was placed where each of the 4 sled tracks will sit to help hold them place. We never tie them down in an enclosed trailer.

 

IMG_20171130_2050568.thumb.jpg.91492620fc17e62f20fd1d148c72e35e.jpg

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12 hours ago, Yamatario said:

We cut up old pick-up bed liners. A cut up old snowmobile track was placed where each of the 4 sled tracks will sit to help hold them place. We never tie them down in an enclosed trailer.

 

IMG_20171130_2050568.thumb.jpg.91492620fc17e62f20fd1d148c72e35e.jpg

You are just asking for trouble by not tying down. Doesn’t matter how careful you are, you can’t control what happens around you on the road. MTO wants 4 points of attachment for each sled. So if you ever get pulled over that’s going to be one hefty fine and you’re opening yourself up for more problems because they will always find other things to charge you with. Have seen them do these checks on 400 on busy sled weekends. They only check sled trailers. Just a warning.

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14 minutes ago, FIRE242 said:

You are just asking for trouble by not tying down. Doesn’t matter how careful you are, you can’t control what happens around you on the road. MTO wants 4 points of attachment for each sled. So if you ever get pulled over that’s going to be one hefty fine and you’re opening yourself up for more problems because they will always find other things to charge you with. Have seen them do these checks on 400 on busy sled weekends. They only check sled trailers. Just a warning.

I agree on tie downs. I used to just use the bar that held the skis down. Late fall south bound 400 north of MacTier. There's a car off the road in the centre median in the distance. The road is bare. Suddenly the truck and trailer is fish tailing down the road on black ice. At one point it's heade for the rock face. The computerized braking system does its job pulsing one wheel at a time. 

 

Get through it and the sleds stayed put on the front end but the back ends were swinging side to side banging into the side walls of the trailer. Had it been an open trailer I suspect the rear of the sleds may have gone off the sides. 

 

Sleds are are now strapped down at the rear as well.

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8 hours ago, manotickmike said:

Yamatario, what trailer is that? (drool...)

That is a Bremar 25 ft alum inline. just new September this year. Hope to put graphics on next year.

IMG_20170930_1651143.thumb.jpg.eeef892d60983699c1984bb91659c79b.jpg

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Those horse stall mats are tough but they are HEAVY. I put those clamp tracks from princes auto down 2 feet in from each side and added 3/8 plywood to make it flat again. I found an old Bedliner in the ditch on the 401 and cut it up for runners on the ramps and used a 2 foot wide strip of rubber mat in the middle of the ramps.I made my own "superclamps".I might have 30$ in the 3 clamps I made with 1" square pipe. 

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On 1/13/2018 at 7:17 PM, Yamatario said:

We cut up old pick-up bed liners. A cut up old snowmobile track was placed where each of the 4 sled tracks will sit to help hold them place. We never tie them down in an enclosed trailer.

 

IMG_20171130_2050568.thumb.jpg.91492620fc17e62f20fd1d148c72e35e.jpg

Also agreed on tie downs as a must.   Your thin aluminum skin on the trailer will not keep a 700lb machine in if you have to veer away from a accident or MOOSE.  Use those D rings, they are not for show..lol....  my enclosed trailer is a bit challenging for tieing down, but that extra `15 minutes is well worth if if anything should happen....straps should have weight stamps or tags on them to be viable according to MTO. (cheap canadian tire straps just dont cut it!)

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Make sure those D rings have an aluminum backing plate under the floor and they are bolted through with nuts.  Wood screws will pull out.

 

BP

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1 hour ago, snowman said:

Also agreed on tie downs as a must.   Your thin aluminum skin on the trailer will not keep a 700lb machine in if you have to veer away from a accident or MOOSE.  Use those D rings, they are not for show..lol....  my enclosed trailer is a bit challenging for tieing down, but that extra `15 minutes is well worth if if anything should happen....straps should have weight stamps or tags on them to be viable according to MTO. (cheap canadian tire straps just dont cut it!)

I have some really neat easy to use straps takes a minute to put them on and a few seconds to release them I will take some pics later in day. I use to joke about just driving my sled into an enclosed trailer and putting the parking brake on. Unfortunately if something happens you will be charged with a bunch of offences, won't be pretty either.

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Wow, tons of great ideas :).  Thank you everyone!

 

What I've decided

 

Super Clamp II at the front. 

2 D-Rings w/backing plates at the rear just forward of my rear bumper.  Ratchet strap across the rear bumper.

LowPro Wide Glide Kit from Royal

 

Coat Hooks One on each side .

Fire extinguisher

 

 

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Puggz said:

Wow, tons of great ideas :).  Thank you everyone!

 

What I've decided

 

Super Clamp II at the front. 

2 D-Rings w/backing plates at the rear just forward of my rear bumper.  Ratchet strap across the rear bumper.

LowPro Wide Glide Kit from Royal

 

Coat Hooks One on each side .

Fire extinguisher

 

 

 

 

You forgot the fold down bed from the side wall for when you're in trouble with the other half....

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On 2018-01-12 at 1:55 PM, snapper said:

Like O2 stated, moisture under the stall mats would be a problem. Line- X would eliminate that problem. Don't know the cost of doing a trailer.

Wood can still rot on outside between the line x and road. I keep my trailer inside a heated shop when not in use, so wood stays dry, on bottom. 

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1 hour ago, Puggz said:

2 D-Rings w/backing plates at the rear just forward of my rear bumper.  Ratchet strap across the rear bumper.

I think your D rings should be behind the sled on each side.  You need something more substantial than that Super Clamp to hold the sleds back in case you end up in the ditch.  If not, everything will be piled up at the front of the trailer and the front skin will be damaged.  Ratchet straps at the rear going out at 30 deg angle on each side to hold back and control side movement.

 

BP

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8 minutes ago, Big Pussy said:

I think your D rings should be behind the sled on each side.  You need something more substantial than that Super Clamp to hold the sleds back in case you end up in the ditch.  If not, everything will be piled up at the front of the trailer and the front skin will be damaged.  Ratchet straps at the rear going out at 30 deg angle on each side to hold back and control side movement.

 

BP

I agree... the most likely motion of the sleds in the trailer would be the result of a very sudden stop or impact. The forward momentum from the stop would see the sleds moving forward in the trailer. Straps going down and in front of the rear bumper would just become looser. If they went down and back they would stop that forward motion.

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The superclamps will hold the sled in place even if the trailer ends up on its side.  Just ask Livin'

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