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Best Trailer Locks


Chickey6.archived

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We just bought a new trailer and I was wondering what locks everyone uses for doors and hitch locks.  Yes I know nothing can stop everyone but looking for something good that they at least have to work at.

TIA

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I use Polaris stickers on the trailer, it usually keeps them away!

 

Seriously,  I lock the hitch with a padlock, same with the lid on the trailer. Just enough to make it a PITA for the thieves.

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I buy a 3 or 4 pack of Master weatherproof or HD ones at Princess Auto.

That way, they're keyed alike.

I threw out all of my hitch pin and tongue locks. 

I drilled out a hitch pin to accept a Master lock (2" long shackle?) and use the same lock through the tongue lock. 

My new trailer is a 2 5/16" ball, I can't remember if my old trailer tongue had the ability to be locked with a padlock.

This is the way to convince locks that you are not to be trifled with. I have a few of these. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/micro-jet-torch-0587500p.html#srp

On sale (again) this week. Not really worth $33, (unless you're locked out!) but a STEAL at $10.

 

 

 

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I only put the locks on once we get to our destination, eliminates all the slush and freezing up that is bound to occur travelling.

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31 minutes ago, Nunz said:

I only put the locks on once we get to our destination, eliminates all the slush and freezing up that is bound to occur travelling.

X2  I keep them in the center console of the ruck, then take them out before the trip home.  Mine is just a tongue and receiver pin lock, as I have an open trailer.

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6 hours ago, Chickey6 said:

We just bought a new trailer and I was wondering what locks everyone uses for doors and hitch locks.  Yes I know nothing can stop everyone but looking for something good that they at least have to work at.

TIA

I use a bunch of locks... make it hard enough for them to look for an easier target

 

On the coupler

 

Capture.JPG.50322a305f4188a990a8b5c4b0d6afce.JPG

 

as well as

 

Capture.JPG.4258cd2036013040238c3c9add60e245.JPG

 

That covers the coupler.

 

Then the wheel gets one of these - on sale at Princess Auto in the flyer that just arrived,

 

Capture.JPG.827a13a7cca2d7fa6ab9552dee4fc1c5.JPG

 

On the ramp door I use a weather resistant padlock when it's parked. I'm sure to remove it when driving or it gets crusted over. When the trailer is parked I have an old neoprene mouse pad that I poked two nail holes into so that I can push the padlock shackle through and it has a tight fit. I wrap it around the lock to protect it from freeze thaw and water seeping inside down the shackle holes. If they still want it then I have insurance.

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I've read elsewhere that the Master Lock Pro series is more resistant to freezing, but they are expensive.   Also an old inner tube cut to cover the lock as well.  Punch two holes in the tube smaller than the lock pin diameter and it will deflect most of the elements....haven't tried that yet

 

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Master-Lock-Security-6121NKALJ-3-Technology/dp/B079RLPYRH/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3MN39EOS6MOWU&keywords=master+lock+pro+series&qid=1573082350&rnid=5264023011&s=hi&sprefix=master+lock+pro%2Caps%2C153&sr=1-4

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I took my own advice today and went to the tire shop and got a free used tire tube to cut up for weather protection on my locks.

Not pretty, but hopefully this works; I'll post again if it doesn't.

 

I'm also thinking the long tube section I have on the trailer tongue might be long enough to cover the receiver when the two are coupled together thereby keeping the road slush off the lock.   The other idea it to do as Nunz suggests to keep the locks in the vehicle until reaching the destingation.

 

brian

 

 

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56 minutes ago, Candubrain said:

I took my own advice today and went to the tire shop and got a free used tire tube to cut up for weather protection on my locks.

Not pretty, but hopefully this works; I'll post again if it doesn't.

 

I'm also thinking the long tube section I have on the trailer tongue might be long enough to cover the receiver when the two are coupled together thereby keeping the road slush off the lock.   The other idea it to do as Nunz suggests to keep the locks in the vehicle until reaching the destingation.

 

brian

 

 

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I like the tube for the padlock. The neoprene mouse pad that I fold over is kept folded with a bit of Velcro at the bottom. I'm with Nunz on the drive with the locks removed. I use just a pin on the coupler for safety until I get to the destination. Once I offload I put the padlock on the ramp and lock the coupler again with

 

Capture.JPG.3efca496bfebea437aad0c4252a2ab2f.JPG

 

Now that I am at my destination I also lock the trailer draw bar into the receiver with this.

 

Capture.JPG.4bc45e605a2b202ec7e4d47319f27e85.JPG

 

I started using this after having parked at the Coldwater arena for a day. It's a busy place yet at the end of the day a nearby truck and trailer loaded up. When they went to pull away the bar pulled out of the receiver. Someone had it seems been trying to pull the bar out to disconnect the trailer from the truck. A quick check of mine found my pin was still there but the retaining clip was now missing.

 

Putting the locks on and off only takes a few minutes.

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Is that draw bar lock from Princess?

I bought a few last year, felt pretty smug, on sale for cheep, found 3 keyed the same. 

I left one on for the last month of winter, well oiled, and when it came time to remove it, the lock cylinder had turned to mush. 

I had to cut it off. That was a pain, not a great spot to be operating a cut-off tool.

Use caution. If I'd had to remove that away from home, I'd have been in a pickle.

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Candubrain said:

I'm also thinking the long tube section I have on the trailer tongue might be long enough to cover the receiver when the two are coupled together thereby keeping the road slush off the lock.  

I think it will work. Good idea.

The other idea it to do as Nunz suggests to keep the locks in the vehicle until reaching the destingation.

Don't take too long a break at a travel stop - would have lost a spare trailer wheel and tire if I had not had it locked while in to pay for gas and take a whiz. Fasteners loose, cover ripped off lock.

 

brian

 

 

 

 

 

Another idea for keeping your safety chains tidy if you missed it last summer - you need the heavy duty bicycle inner tubes that are puncture resistant - says right on the box - @Canadian Tire.

 

biketube.thumb.JPG.dcba5ee5472ca5a0915f2ccc3ded5435.JPG

 

 

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12 hours ago, manotickmike said:

Is that draw bar lock from Princess?

I bought a few last year, felt pretty smug, on sale for cheep, found 3 keyed the same. 

I left one on for the last month of winter, well oiled, and when it came time to remove it, the lock cylinder had turned to mush. 

I had to cut it off. That was a pain, not a great spot to be operating a cut-off tool.

Use caution. If I'd had to remove that away from home, I'd have been in a pickle.

 

 

 

I got mine from Canadian Tire. I don't leave it in when driving in winter. I don't have any locks when on the road. They are for when parked. I will lock the coupler, the ramp and just to be safe a quick pull of the draw bar pin and replace it with the locking one. All the road snirt that gets thrown up below bumper level would kill just about anything.

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Search on you tube for the lock picking lawyer. He demonstrates the ease of picking locks and brute force attacks of locks. He is very informative and gets straight to the point. I have watched many of his videos and the conclusion is Master Locks are one of the worst locks out there along with any Chinese locks. A lock he recommended is made by Proven Industries. 

 

 

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I went with 3 German made Abus Diskus locks on my trailer after some research - if you've got the best hybrid trailer in the business,  your locks should be best in the world as well. You generally have to get these from a specialized lock shop.

 

The  241B/70 came out on top in terms of how long it took thieves to open them compared to other brands,  in addition to having the best corrosion resistance. No lock is impervious to someone wanting to break in - research youtube videos for a bunch of people whose hobby it is to open locks by picking - but if you can slow thieves down or make things inconvenient, they might move on or be discovered.  Another good reason for using the SuperClamps inside the trailer is that you can lock them down with padlocks as well, making a further pain in the butt for would be thieves......if you're using the clamps anyway, why not?

 

Maybe next year if I have the time, I'll set up a thief triggerable disco light and music display inside the trailer, kind of like the display featured inside the car on that "Cash Cab" show with a revolving light outside as well. Or maybe not.

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No offence guys but what i'm looking at above is only going to keep the honest people away.  The master padlock can easily be forced open with a 24oz ball peen hammer - a couple of whacks and viola!  also, the hitch pin lock can easily  be twisted off with a 4' section of pipe placed over the end.  Lets face it if you have 10's of thousands worth of stuff in your trailer a cordless grinder with a cut-off blade will make short work of almost anything.  I lost a trailer last year (stolen right out of my dealers secure lot) which was behind a fence (padlock) and I had one of these reese things.  Took then less than a minute to go through both (a homeowner from across the street witnessed it all).  Now I use these (Trimax and Amplock):

 

image.png.7914a69ccab753df3e9ad303774b530b.pngimage.png.01174718ded91b12853ac052b81b5875.png

 

 

 

 

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The best lock that you will find is called the Krok Lock. You ourchase them online and protects your trailer in tow and not in tow with the same unit. Once installed you never take it off or on. www.kroklock.com

new products 14.jpg

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Please remember everything can be stolen if they are equipped with the right time and tools. Krok Lock is made as the best detourant on the market, before any one talks trash about the product please research more about it. i have personally owned them on my trailers and have had attempts to steal my trailer and i ended up with a damaged krok lock and trailer and sleds were still in tact. Installed another unit and good to go. They come in aluminum and plastic

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4 hours ago, Puggz said:

No offence guys but what i'm looking at above is only going to keep the honest people away.  The master padlock can easily be forced open with a 24oz ball peen hammer - a couple of whacks and viola!  also, the hitch pin lock can easily  be twisted off with a 4' section of pipe placed over the end.  Lets face it if you have 10's of thousands worth of stuff in your trailer a cordless grinder with a cut-off blade will make short work of almost anything.  I lost a trailer last year (stolen right out of my dealers secure lot) which was behind a fence (padlock) and I had one of these reese things.  Took then less than a minute to go through both (a homeowner from across the street witnessed it all).  Now I use these (Trimax and Amplock):

 

image.png.7914a69ccab753df3e9ad303774b530b.pngimage.png.01174718ded91b12853ac052b81b5875.png

 

 

 

 

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They can all be broken or broken into or cut off like you said. My objective is that with the multiple locks and parking in a high visibility situation where thieves can be seen and heard they will hopefully look for a lower risk and less effort option. Beyond that I have done my due diligence and have insurance. One other aspect many overlook is that the coupler can be unbolted and replaced. Two nuts and bolts.

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The krok lock will not allow the coupler to be removed. Yes you can remove the coupler bolts but the way the krok lock fits and works those coupler bolts have no effect on the krok lock

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3 hours ago, catdog said:

Please remember everything can be stolen if they are equipped with the right time and tools. Krok Lock is made as the best detourant on the market, before any one talks trash about the product please research more about it. i have personally owned them on my trailers and have had attempts to steal my trailer and i ended up with a damaged krok lock and trailer and sleds were still in tact. Installed another unit and good to go. They come in aluminum and plastic

I watched the video and it looks interesting, but it appears to me that he didn't really attempt to show that it was impervious.  The attempts with the pry bar were pretty feeble and I don't know if he even pulled the trigger on the reciprocating saw.  I can't see that the plastic (whatever blend) would stand up to a recip saw for very long.  A less feeble unsuccessful break in attempt would have been much more credible.  I think I saw those at the Novi show about 5 years ago and wasn't impressed enough to dump the money into one at that time.

 

IMO, a cordless angle grinder would gain access through that in short order, as it would for most other devices.   JMO

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i don't want to begin a debate, but like i said anyone who has the time and tools can take anything they want, but for the sole purpose of product is to detour the thieves from taking your trailer. It has hardened rods molded into the plastic. Compared to all the other products ive seen it is the only one that works in tow and not in tow. Yes insurance claims are good if you are into that, but it cost you more money out of pocket as you never get all of your value in full return and puts a damper on your season. Pretty reasonable for 100.00 to protect thousands.

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After watching that lock picking video i don't know why i bother to even lock my trailer ..lol

 

cheers

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