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Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil

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When I was rallying, I only used quality dino oil (20W50) in my race engine.  I figured that if I needed to add during an event, compatible oil was easily accessible and was not concerned about oil life as the oil was only in the engine for 1 event.  The oil and filter were changed after every event and the oil coming out looked nice and clean.

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0-40 M1 Euro formula goes in my Apex, following recs from the TY forum. 

Typically do a forced march to the very back of wally-world (my annual visit...) to get it.

Anyone see the 0-40 euro on the sale pile?

Going to need to do 2 sleds this time around. 

Have been using the same 0-40 M1 Euro Formula in the RX-1 for 14 years and 30K km, with no engine issues at all.

Usually goes on sale at CTC in the fall.

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Correct me if I am incorrect but isn't the 30 or 40 after the W in the type refer to the way the oil acts (weight) in hot weather conditions. Thinking that a 40 rating would act like a thicker or heavier oil. If my thinking is correct, on a snowmobile given the cold weather operation, I wonder why Yamaha would want a 30 type in one engine and a 40 type in another engine.

True on the thicker viscosity comment. No idea why the different oils being spec'd.

 

When I got my 2011 Poo Ranger they initially spec'd a 2W50 oil which only they sold. Since then the spec' has changed to 5W50 which has aftermarket suppliers.

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It never ceases to amaze me when people cheap out on the quality of a filter, oil or other fluids. Think about it. On a 4 stroke sled, (conceptual pricing), the OEM oil & filter costs say $70. Some people go for the bargain basement oil & filter. They manage to save $20 or $25. It's a once a year cost at most. Wow... You just saved enough that you can get a part tank of gas or lunch on a ride.

 

It's like the guy with a $100K boat that hunts for the cheapest polish/wax he can find to protect the finish of that $100K investment.

O2, I think the issue is when people perceive that they are getting ripped off by the OEMs. Wally Mart sells OEM filters for less than the dealers do.

 

I don't anyone in this thread is condoning 'cheapening out' on the oil & filter. I've always used brand name oils in my vehicles & AC or WIX filters. You won't find me using off brand filters & oil.

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When I was rallying, I only used quality dino oil (20W50) in my race engine.  I figured that if I needed to add during an event, compatible oil was easily accessible and was not concerned about oil life as the oil was only in the engine for 1 event.  The oil and filter were changed after every event and the oil coming out looked nice and clean.

How many miles was the event on average? I seen some rally's go on for days on tv. Looks like a very interesting sport. 

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We started the season on fresh oil & filter. The sleds got such little use it's not getting replaced right now. End of next season it will get done due to age more so than use.

What is little use, like 500 km's each? 

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The question was asked above about the rating of the oil, the numbers ....

 

I once read that in its most basic of all explanations, it means 10W40 should pour like 10w but protect like 40w.... thus Revrnds' 5w50 would pour like 5wt and protect like 50.

 

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See this explanation of why synthetic oil is better etc.  If it's on the internet, it must be true.

 

https://youtu.be/tYkg0oDUXs8

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I understood that the 30W oil in the triples was due to the hydraulic action of the timing chain tensioner working better with the heavier oil.  I don't know how or what is different between the triple and the four holer, but they have always recommended the 0w30 for the triple so I have stuck with that rating.

 

BTW, thanks to this thread and the OP, I picked up 3 jugs of Mobil 1 (0W30) yesterday.

 

 

Correct me if I am incorrect but isn't the 30 or 40 after the W in the type refer to the way the oil acts (weight) in hot weather conditions. Thinking that a 40 rating would act like a thicker or heavier oil. If my thinking is correct, on a snowmobile given the cold weather operation, I wonder why Yamaha would want a 30 type in one engine and a 40 type in another engine.

Actually, my Apex calls for 0w30 as well, and generally I agree with following Manu's recommendations.  But there seems to be a contradiction here.  Yammie spec's 0w30 but packages oil change kits, model specific, for both 3-holers and 4-holers in both 30 and 40, and their sales spin says full syn (0w40) is better.  

 

Anyway, Big Pussy........Right on, Brother.  No more time to worry about oil changes, I gotta get back to replacing the wheel bearing/hub on Mrs. Whit's Lacrosse.

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What is little use, like 500 km's each? 

My wife didn't get out at all so I alternated between her sled and mine. I think it was about 800 total so 400 each.

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How many miles was the event on average? I seen some rally's go on for days on tv. Looks like a very interesting sport. 

A long event would be about 600 Km with maybe half on competitive stages where the turbo is really working and the rest on open roads, or transits.  Usually would be maybe 200 Km.

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Actually the manual for my Yamaha 1049CC motor oil  reads  Recommended Type SAE 0W-30  Grade API Service SG type or Higher. 

The Mobil 1 on sale at CTC this weekend is  SAE 0W-30  Grade API Service SN

The SN Grade is considered obsolete now and the SN is back serviceable according to the Petroleum Quality Institute of America.The Petroleum Quality Institute of America 

I believe SN is a more current and better rating which covers all previous API ratings. 

127CBE5B-F3DA-4CA9-8C70-EA1BA4AA4C77.png

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Anyway, Big Pussy........Right on, Brother.  No more time to worry about oil changes, I gotta get back to replacing the wheel bearing/hub on Mrs. Whit's Lacrosse.

 

 

I can hear the hammer blows and the cursing from here.

  • Haha 1

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I believe that service SN gets most of the zinc out of the oil that old flat tappet engines need to reduce sliding wear.  This is to reduce catalytic converter contamination from zinc.

 

Good old Valvoline VR1 still has the zinc in it though.

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Well the sledders in Ptbo must've bought all the 0W40. Both stores sold out of it but shelffulls of 5W30.

 

If anyone in the Durham Region area happens to spot a couple of jugs if 0W40 could you pick them up for me?

TIA

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Well the sledders in Ptbo must've bought all the 0W40. Both stores sold out of it but shelffulls of 5W30.

 

If anyone in the Durham Region area happens to spot a couple of jugs if 0W40 could you pick them up for me?

TIA

No rain checks allowed? Usually they will on oil. 

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No rain checks allowed? Usually they will on oil. 

I didn't bother asking. Knowing them they screw up the order.

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O2, I think the issue is when people perceive that they are getting ripped off by the OEMs. Wally Mart sells OEM filters for less than the dealers do.

 

I don't anyone in this thread is condoning 'cheapening out' on the oil & filter. I've always used brand name oils in my vehicles & AC or WIX filters. You won't find me using off brand filters & oil.

I do my research 1st. It's NOT about saving $$$.

Most OEMs re-brand the oil they can make the most profit on. I trust Mobil 1. 

Filters are worse. I think Yamaha quoted me $26 for a filter that's worth about $5. 

I'd rather have the K+N filter. (Hiflo is a K+N without the sticker.)

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I do my research 1st. It's NOT about saving $$$.

Most OEMs re-brand the oil they can make the most profit on. I trust Mobil 1. 

Filters are worse. I think Yamaha quoted me $26 for a filter that's worth about $5. 

I'd rather have the K+N filter. (Hiflo is a K+N without the sticker.)

 

Google the technical data for the grade of oil you use. When I started using synthetic back in 2000, I researched the different brands. I looked for the thinnest oil @ low temps & thickest oil @ higher temps. There are SAE standards that are easily understood. Back then the Pennzoil synthetic fit MY 'standards'. A year or so ago, I checked the tech sheets and Mobil 1 was the 'best' oil to my eye.

 

It was kind of telling that GM doesn't specify THEIR oil (I imagine the other OEMs don't either) whereas this seems to be a common occurrence in the powersports industry.

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$26!

They had all grades, IIRC, the Dexos was $30.

Mobil1.jpg

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O2, I think the issue is when people perceive that they are getting ripped off by the OEMs.

 

Yep - BRP starter motor $465.00. Or aftermarket part Kimpex $119.00.

 

Anywhoo ....this site breaks down the chemical proponents of various oils - allows arguing discussion with a few facts:

 

The Petroleum Quality Institute of America

 

http://pqiamerica.com/PCMO_Sample_Summary_12_15_2016.html

 

Where are those BRP and Yamaha oil refineries located?

 

 

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Yep - BRP starter motor $465.00. Or aftermarket part Kimpex $119.00.

 

Perhaps.... but the aftermarket starter fails between instantly and 1 year ... you DO get what you pay for sometimes.  I've been there. 

 

I put Honda brushes in my Polaris quad starter  (used ones no less) about 3 or 4 years ago... aftermarket brushes were a 9-10 month wear item.

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Yep - BRP starter motor $465.00. Or aftermarket part Kimpex $119.00.

 

Anywhoo ....this site breaks down the chemical proponents of various oils - allows arguing discussion with a few facts:

 

The Petroleum Quality Institute of America

 

http://pqiamerica.com/PCMO_Sample_Summary_12_15_2016.html

 

Where are those BRP and Yamaha oil refineries located?

 

 

Ive used that site too. 

 

About the starters, S-I-L's 377 Safari needed a new starter years ago. Bombi replacement cost was north of 300 bucks. Bro' checked @ the local starter/alternator shop & the starter was I think a Denso part used by Nissan. A reman' was considersbly less.

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I try to stay away from the big K as much as possible.  Been burned too many times.

 

BP

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Perhaps.... but the aftermarket starter fails between instantly and 1 year ... you DO get what you pay for sometimes.  I've been there. 

 

I put Honda brushes in my Polaris quad starter  (used ones no less) about 3 or 4 years ago... aftermarket brushes were a 9-10 month wear item.

Denis, it was a 377 Safari! 

  • Haha 1

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