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Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil


revrnd

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Actually the manual for my Yamaha 1049CC motor oil  reads  Recommended Type SAE 0W-30  Grade API Service SG type or Higher. 

The Mobil 1 on sale at CTC this weekend is  SAE 0W-30  Grade API Service SN

The SN Grade is considered obsolete now and the SN is back serviceable according to the Petroleum Quality Institute of America.The Petroleum Quality Institute of America 

True dat.  But Yamalube full synthetic is only available in 0w40, and they sell it packaged for all Yammie 4-strokes.

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Actually the manual for my Yamaha 1049CC motor oil  reads  Recommended Type SAE 0W-30  Grade API Service SG type or Higher. 

The Mobil 1 on sale at CTC this weekend is  SAE 0W-30  Grade API Service SN

The SN Grade is considered obsolete now and the SN is back serviceable according to the Petroleum Quality Institute of America.The Petroleum Quality Institute of America 

Correct me if Im wrong but since when did API start going backwards on its ratings?

 

I've been buying motor oil since '82 and when the API updates the ratings, the letters go 'up'. For example an SF oil would supercede an SE oil. If someone thinks SG oil is a newer rating than SN, that's news to me.

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Actually the manual for my Yamaha 1049CC motor oil  reads  Recommended Type SAE 0W-30  Grade API Service SG type or Higher. 

The Mobil 1 on sale at CTC this weekend is  SAE 0W-30  Grade API Service SN

The SN Grade is considered obsolete now and the SN is back serviceable according to the Petroleum Quality Institute of America.The Petroleum Quality Institute of America 

Castro edge isn't a full synthetic even though they claim it is. They cheat and use a Dino base and throw awhole bunch of additives at it. While Mobil 1 base is made in lab, no Dinio oil at all. That is why Castro is on sale so much. 

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My bad.  If it's 0w20 it will be full syn.  5w30 GM oil is semi-syn.  Your dealer may use anyone's bulk oil which could be full syn.

Ow 20 yes. Vette gets something different, they probability just bring in bottles for them. I will ask when I pick it up. 

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Checking the owners manuals of my truck & sled. 

 

GM specifies a 5W30 oil w/ a Dexos1 spec for the 6 L in my '17 2500HD. No mention of API rating

 

BRP specifies their own XPS oil for my 900ACE. If the recommended oil isn't available, use SAE 0W-40 synthetic based oil that meets or exceeds the requirements for API service classification SM.

 

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5ad9342e3424d_Mobil1_2.thumb.jpg.bb5a1d89d02c2ef637115079a911c440.jpg

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Revrnd my 1200 says the same thing in the owners manual for oil requirements. Can someone explain what "Dexos" oil is. Is it a semi synthetic or full synthetic oil or is it just a marketing ploy to get Gm owners back to the dealer? 

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Castro edge isn't a full synthetic even though they claim it is. They cheat and use a Dino base and throw awhole bunch of additives at it. While Mobil 1 base is made in lab, no Dinio oil at all. That is why Castro is on sale so much. 

That sounds like coffee shop gossip, but I'd be interested to read the proof.  Not sure how they can print 'Full Synthetic' on the package if it's not.

Not really trying to play 'My oil's better than yours'.   I agree Mobil 1 is good oil and I've used it in the past.  Just sayin' it's harder to find at a decent price where I live.  And with car and truck oil changes at 5,000 kms, I'm not too worried.

Btw, Castrol Edge 'European Formula' is a whole different product, Made in Germany.  We've used both 0w30 and 0w40 with confidence in 4 4-stroke Yammies, all with  20-30,000 kms, no engine issues.

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True dat.  But Yamalube full synthetic is only available in 0w40, and they sell it packaged for all Yammie 4-strokes.

Actually, Yamaha sells 0W30 semi syn and recommends it for the three cylinders and also 0W40 Full syn for the Apex.  I have always stuck with the 0W30, but have used Mobil1 as well as the Yamalube.

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Actually, Yamaha sells 0W30 semi syn and recommends it for the three cylinders and also 0W40 Full syn for the Apex.  .

Actually, Yamaha sells both oils, in model specific oil change kit form, for both Vector and Apex.  

Example: p/n SMB-OILCH-KT-02 is 0w30 semi-syn kit for Vector, Venture, etc.

                 p/n SMB-OILCH-KT-22 is 0w40 full syn kit for Vector, Venture etc

These listings are from the accessories listings on www.yamaha-motor.ca

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I scored 2 jugs of Mobil 1 0W40 tonight.  $26 each.  Now I need to price out an oil filter at the Yam dealer for my YamaCat.  I have a whole list of replacement filter numbers from every maker but will start with the real filter.  The Cat oil change kit was $65 dollars last time I seen it.

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Castro edge isn't a full synthetic even though they claim it is. They cheat and use a Dino base and throw awhole bunch of additives at it. While Mobil 1 base is made in lab, no Dinio oil at all. That is why Castro is on sale so much. 

 

 

That sounds like coffee shop gossip, but I'd be interested to read the proof.  Not sure how they can print 'Full Synthetic' on the package if it's not.

Not really trying to play 'My oil's better than yours'.   I agree Mobil 1 is good oil and I've used it in the past.  Just sayin' it's harder to find at a decent price where I live.  And with car and truck oil changes at 5,000 kms, I'm not too worried.

Btw, Castrol Edge 'European Formula' is a whole different product, Made in Germany.  We've used both 0w30 and 0w40 with confidence in 4 4-stroke Yammies, all with  20-30,000 kms, no engine issues.

 

I have read something along the same lines as well. This is all I could find online:

 

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=852906

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0-40 M1 Euro formula goes in my Apex, following recs from the TY forum. 

Typically do a forced march to the very back of wally-world (my annual visit...) to get it.

Anyone see the 0-40 euro on the sale pile?

Going to need to do 2 sleds this time around. 

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I scored 2 jugs of Mobil 1 0W40 tonight.  $26 each.  Now I need to price out an oil filter at the Yam dealer for my YamaCat.  I have a whole list of replacement filter numbers from every maker but will start with the real filter.  The Cat oil change kit was $65 dollars last time I seen it.

If you use good oil, can leave filter in place. Not like we drive sleds in dusty or dirty conditions. 

Mobil 1 if my vechicle was out of warranty I would leave it in for 20,000 km's no worries. Castro would stick to 8 to 10,000 km mark. 

Have a friend with a BMW runs only Mobil 1, changes it once a year or every 24,000 km's, that is it. 

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0-40 M1 Euro formula goes in my Apex, following recs from the TY forum. 

Typically do a forced march to the very back of wally-world (my annual visit...) to get it.

Anyone see the 0-40 euro on the sale pile?

Going to need to do 2 sleds this time around. 

 

LOL

I've always referred to it as Wally Mart, Wally's World sells a certain brand of sled in Bancrotch...

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The oil and filter has been in the sled for 2 seasons.  It's time for a change.

 

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We started the season on fresh oil & filter. The sleds got such little use it's not getting replaced right now. End of next season it will get done due to age more so than use.

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Actually, Yamaha sells 0W30 semi syn and recommends it for the three cylinders and also 0W40 Full syn for the Apex.  I have always stuck with the 0W30, but have used Mobil1 as well as the Yamalube.

Correct me if I am incorrect but isn't the 30 or 40 after the W in the type refer to the way the oil acts (weight) in hot weather conditions. Thinking that a 40 rating would act like a thicker or heavier oil. If my thinking is correct, on a snowmobile given the cold weather operation, I wonder why Yamaha would want a 30 type in one engine and a 40 type in another engine.

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https://fortnine.ca/en/hiflofiltro-oil-filter

My $9.68 filter option. 

The service interval on the Apex for the filter is ridiculous. 

I change both annually. Seems the least I can do for something that gives SO much, I abuse so hard, and put away wet. 

On 87 octane fuel.

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It never ceases to amaze me when people cheap out on the quality of a filter, oil or other fluids. Think about it. On a 4 stroke sled, (conceptual pricing), the OEM oil & filter costs say $70. Some people go for the bargain basement oil & filter. They manage to save $20 or $25. It's a once a year cost at most. Wow... You just saved enough that you can get a part tank of gas or lunch on a ride.

 

It's like the guy with a $100K boat that hunts for the cheapest polish/wax he can find to protect the finish of that $100K investment.

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The only way I am going to get rich is to keep the money I earn and not throw it away.  I use quality materials and since I have two feet and a heart beat so far, so I am quite capable of doing so myself.  All this work that I do by myself, for myself, limits my time wasted watching the endless crap about Trump.  And you know what ?  Endless things are learned doing so.  This experience is what is so lacking in the world today.

 

Never before in the history of mankind have so many known so much about so little.

 

Never before in the history of mankind have so many known so little about so much.

 

The problem today is that the masses are scared shitless to work on anything because they are told they can't.  Well I can and I do.

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The only way I am going to get rich is to keep the money I earn and not throw it away.  I use quality materials and since I have two feet and a heart beat so far, so I am quite capable of doing so myself.  All this work that I do by myself, for myself, limits my time wasted watching the endless crap about Trump.  And you know what ?  Endless things are learned doing so.  This experience is what is so lacking in the world today.

 

Never before in the history of mankind have so many known so much about so little.

 

Never before in the history of mankind have so many known so little about so much.

 

The problem today is that the masses are scared shitless to work on anything because they are told they can't.  Well I can and I do.

X2!  It is also a chance to look for things that are starting to go wrong before they get worse.

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The only way I am going to get rich is to keep the money I earn and not throw it away.  I use quality materials and since I have two feet and a heart beat so far, so I am quite capable of doing so myself.  All this work that I do by myself, for myself, limits my time wasted watching the endless crap about Trump.  And you know what ?  Endless things are learned doing so.  This experience is what is so lacking in the world today.

 

Never before in the history of mankind have so many known so much about so little.

 

Never before in the history of mankind have so many known so little about so much.

 

The problem today is that the masses are scared shitless to work on anything because they are told they can't.  Well I can and I do.

Everyone has their unique strengths and aptitudes and should embrace what talents they have. My brother has an aptitude for all things mechanical. He thrived on tearing motors apart and putting them back together from a very early age. I think he was about 12 when he decided (as a surprise to my dad) to tear apart our lawn mower to make it run better. If I recall dad ended up buying a new lawn mower.

 

Myself.... I can crunch and analyze numbers, do computer systems and for a hobby make things with wood. I made our bedroom furniture. I don't have the talent to tear motors apart and put them back together. I'd have parts left over. I tried and tried but I couldn't play a musical instrument if my life depended on it.

 

I loaned my neighbour a circular saw... his wife brought it back asking if I was trying to make her a widow. She watched as he pulled the trigger and the saw jumped back.

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Correct me if I am incorrect but isn't the 30 or 40 after the W in the type refer to the way the oil acts (weight) in hot weather conditions. Thinking that a 40 rating would act like a thicker or heavier oil. If my thinking is correct, on a snowmobile given the cold weather operation, I wonder why Yamaha would want a 30 type in one engine and a 40 type in another engine.

I understood that the 30W oil in the triples was due to the hydraulic action of the timing chain tensioner working better with the heavier oil.  I don't know how or what is different between the triple and the four holer, but they have always recommended the 0w30 for the triple so I have stuck with that rating.

 

BTW, thanks to this thread and the OP, I picked up 3 jugs of Mobil 1 (0W30) yesterday.

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I understood that the 30W oil in the triples was due to the hydraulic action of the timing chain tensioner working better with the heavier oil.  I don't know how or what is different between the triple and the four holer, but they have always recommended the 0w30 for the triple so I have stuck with that rating.

 

BTW, thanks to this thread and the OP, I picked up 3 jugs of Mobil 1 (0W30) yesterday.

Better to do what manufacturer recommends. I once had a buddy do oil analysis on yammie lube. It was basically bottom of barrel oil and power valves always stuck on it, too, Got tired of cleaning and scraping all gooey deposits off them. No synthetic then in early 2000's from yammie. so I used shell at the time. Four strokes don't have valves to protect, but new turbo's are going to require really good oil no doubt.  Mobil 1 is top notch, I run it in every single gas engine I have on farm. Never had an engine die yet and one is over 2,000 hours now. 

 

 

 

 

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