jensen22 Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 2 hours ago, revrnd said: I have done the foot dragging in the past (@ a low speed). I don't recall doing it w/ the REV, the seating position may preclude doing it. Ya i dont know why everyone bashed that and assumed its done at high speeds. I dont typically go fasyer than 30 or 40km on any road regardless. Im only 5' 5" rev xm chassis no issues reaching ground. Cheers haters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grover_yyz Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 6 hours ago, jensen22 said: Ya i dont know why everyone bashed that and assumed its done at high speeds. I dont typically go fasyer than 30 or 40km on any road regardless. Im only 5' 5" rev xm chassis no issues reaching ground. Cheers haters I have done this as well on my Rev XP chassis, no problems so far. Just have to do it slow speed so you don't harm the knee. I have scratchers now, just need to install them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornbinder Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 I ran 15,000 miles on my old rev chassis sc-4 with lots of two up riding . trick is loosen track close to point of racheting and the cheap add on idler brackets and wheel for back from royal or doo junk yard. I only changed the sliders to sell sled still had life to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diceman Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 21 hours ago, gibson said: Think it's Polaris edge wheels that take the 6004 bearing. Older Indy wheels ran 6205 bearings can someone chirp in if they know for sure the exact wheels to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibson Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 1 hour ago, Diceman said: can someone chirp in if they know for sure the exact wheels to use? 5.350 dia. wheel uses the 6004 brg. Same brg yamaha uses on their wheels. Should be in the Royal Distributing book. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whits-end Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Dice, Couple of things. Re-read your posts and your wear is rear of sled, so I prolly misled you by saying you could just oversize the front 4 idler wheels. Most of our wear was up front. You could replace all 6, but not the big rear ones.  We did play around with thickness of plastic washers on the coupling rods, forcing weight transfer forward or rearward. It's been a while since I looked at a V-Max, so I don't remember all the details, so I looked at a catalog. Stock wheels are 5.125" OD, wheels we used were 5.350" OD. I believe they were 04-116-67 Kimpex, which you should be able to buy at any dealer. There is no listing for a Poo wheel 5.350" with 6004 bearing. Old wheels did use 6004 bearings and new ones 6205. I think the bushings that come with them should adapt, but again, I don't remember all the details. I would take a mounting block with me to compare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diceman Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 12 minutes ago, whits-end said: Dice, Couple of things. Re-read your posts and your wear is rear of sled, so I prolly misled you by saying you could just oversize the front 4 idler wheels. Most of our wear was up front. You could replace all 6, but not the big rear ones.  We did play around with thickness of plastic washers on the coupling rods, forcing weight transfer forward or rearward. It's been a while since I looked at a V-Max, so I don't remember all the details, so I looked at a catalog. Stock wheels are 5.125" OD, wheels we used were 5.350" OD. I believe they were 04-116-67 Kimpex, which you should be able to buy at any dealer. There is no listing for a Poo wheel 5.350" with 6004 bearing. Old wheels did use 6004 bearings and new ones 6205. I think the bushings that come with them should adapt, but again, I don't remember all the details. I would take a mounting block with me to compare. thanks...I will take a pic of the sliders and what the back control arms look like and maybe you may have a better idea of what going on...Cheers and thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irv Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 5 hours ago, Diceman said: thanks...I will take a pic of the sliders and what the back control arms look like and maybe you may have a better idea of what going on...Cheers and thanks Diceman, the info in this TY site should be helpful. It is not the 4 stroke one but rather the 2 stroke one. Good luck. (Here are various links/threads I found doing a quick search) https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/Suspension/Hyfax_Saving.htm https://totallyamaha.net/showthread.php/76735-TECH-PAGE-INDEX-FAQ https://totallyamaha.net/showthread.php/76590-Faq-help-tech-info-Please-Look-Here-First-Before-You-Post-thanks https://www.totallyamaha.net/ Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diceman Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 On 2/27/2018 at 12:46 PM, whits-end said: Dice, Couple of things. Re-read your posts and your wear is rear of sled, so I prolly misled you by saying you could just oversize the front 4 idler wheels. Most of our wear was up front. You could replace all 6, but not the big rear ones.  We did play around with thickness of plastic washers on the coupling rods, forcing weight transfer forward or rearward. It's been a while since I looked at a V-Max, so I don't remember all the details, so I looked at a catalog. Stock wheels are 5.125" OD, wheels we used were 5.350" OD. I believe they were 04-116-67 Kimpex, which you should be able to buy at any dealer. There is no listing for a Poo wheel 5.350" with 6004 bearing. Old wheels did use 6004 bearings and new ones 6205. I think the bushings that come with them should adapt, but again, I don't remember all the details. I would take a mounting block with me to compare. so here are some pics...as you can see the back end of sliders are worn badly but front is much better..second pic is front of sliders....3rd and 4th pics are back of sliders, each side......also first pic is of back control arms....the pic of control arms is how it is suppose to be if I am on the sled but the pic is taken with me not on the sled....the gap should be fully on the top of the control arm when no one is on the sled .....when someone is on the sled it should look like it does in the pic....to bad I am not on the sled..lol.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sledjunk Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 What is the thickness of the slider in your pics at the back. From the top of the slider to the bottom. Looks to me like it is above the wear line on the slider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jensen22 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 On 27/02/2018 at 7:50 AM, cornbinder said: I ran 15,000 miles on my old rev chassis sc-4 with lots of two up riding . trick is loosen track close to point of racheting and the cheap add on idler brackets and wheel for back from royal or doo junk yard. I only changed the sliders to sell sled still had life to go Loose track makes a HUGE difference. Ive never added wheels but i measure them after most weekends in comparison to a newset using vernier. Trust that more than the wear bars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 @irREVerent Not sure how my sliders looked, but they replaced mine on the 1st service due to wear @ the front. We had several stretches of bare pavement running. On Hwy 101, the bridges being used may not be all that long, but the guardrails extend for a fair distance on other side. Very little in the way of loose snow.  This is the 1st time I've had sliders replaced so soon. Mind you, the conditions last week were abrasive more than usual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barberch Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 4 hours ago, revrnd said: @irREVerent Not sure how my sliders looked, but they replaced mine on the 1st service due to wear @ the front. We had several stretches of bare pavement running. On Hwy 101, the bridges being used may not be all that long, but the guardrails extend for a fair distance on other side. Very little in the way of loose snow.  This is the 1st time I've had sliders replaced so soon. Mind you, the conditions last week were abrasive more than usual. Did the others in your group need new sliders too? Big mark up on the sliders. I think retail is $10 more than dealer invoice. Maybe thats why they wear so much?  lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PISTON LAKE CRUISER Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 1 hour ago, barberch said: Did the others in your group need new sliders too? Big mark up on the sliders. I think retail is $10 more than dealer invoice. Maybe thats why they wear so much?  lol We rode Liskeard to Hearst and return 2 weeks ago. I'm summarizing my buddies vector XTX 146". The sliders are worn almost to the wear bar in one area. They were installed by a dealer a couple of weeks before we left. They have 1790 km. on them. To be fair, he's not much into running up the banks or into the soft stuff when on a roadway or the trail is really hard and doesn't have scratchers. Still. I would have thought they would do better than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobills Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 On 2/28/2018 at 8:06 PM, Diceman said: so here are some pics...as you can see the back end of sliders are worn badly but front is much better..second pic is front of sliders....3rd and 4th pics are back of sliders, each side......also first pic is of back control arms....the pic of control arms is how it is suppose to be if I am on the sled but the pic is taken with me not on the sled....the gap should be fully on the top of the control arm when no one is on the sled .....when someone is on the sled it should look like it does in the pic....to bad I am not on the sled..lol.... Sorry i can't see anything but empties in the picture LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfish Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 I have good luck with the Dupont sliders that Yammi sells. The standard ones seem to last about a season, however the Dupont ones are lasting 3 seasons or more. The dupont are about twice the price as the standard, but are lasting 3 times as long! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Doo Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 2015 ski doo renny 1200. 8800kms on stock sliders. Stock belt. Yah.. 2 sets of carbides.  No issues what so ever. Now on a 2018 doo mxz x 850. Over 3000kms, no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 1 hour ago, PISTON LAKE CRUISER said: We rode Liskeard to Hearst and return 2 weeks ago. I'm summarizing my buddies vector XTX 146". The sliders are worn almost to the wear bar in one area. They were installed by a dealer a couple of weeks before we left. They have 1790 km. on them. To be fair, he's not much into running up the banks or into the soft stuff when on a roadway or the trail is really hard and doesn't have scratchers. Still. I would have thought they would do better than that. PLC I try to angle up on the banks when possible too Last week in some spots the bank was just as hard as the pavement. Crossing the bridge over the Frederick House River in Connaught, we could smell plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Before the trip up north I hadn't put on 400 klicks on the sled. The pavement running didn't impress me or irREVerent. In all my trips up north, I don't think I'd ever seen as much bare pavement. Usually I get several seasons (lately being more prevalent) out of a pair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 Other than @ a 'doo dealer, does anyone know of any other sources for Dupont's Vespal sliders? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PISTON LAKE CRUISER Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 1 minute ago, revrnd said: Other than @ a 'doo dealer, does anyone know of any other sources for Dupont's Vespal sliders? I got mine at the Yamaha dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 1 minute ago, PISTON LAKE CRUISER said: I got mine at the Yamaha dealer. Priced the same @ 104? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revrnd Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 After 130 klicks on snowy trails Sun' you could see the greyish tinge to the snow on the rear portion of the rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Techdenis007 Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 Scratchers.  Always down. Always. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoso Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 it seems doo and old chasis yamis are really hard on sliders, mine last 15k kms and never get too hot even in marginal snow. Encountered a couple on new ski doos last winter, one had the slider fused to the twe simply could not get it unstuck and they called their dealer to pull it off the trail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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