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Battery on Ski Doo Rotax 380


Tanner

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Hi,

I have a 1995 Ski Doo Rotax 380 and it runs fine, but the battery does not charge while it is running and the lights, hand warmers, etc. do not work either.  I do not know a lot about snowmobile engines, so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this issue.  I also am not sure if the battery is 6 volts or 12 volts.  Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Tanner

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Sounds like a problem with the stator. Essentially the equivalent of an alternator in a car. It generates power when the engine is running. There's a bunch of them on ebay in the range of anywhere from just over $100 to $300. I'm not the most mechanically inclined but every now and then someone mentions something I have some familiarity with. Perhaps Wild Bill or Denis could lend a much more informed opinion of the likely cause.

 

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_pgn=1&isRefine=false&_nkw=skidoo 380 stator

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3 hours ago, 02Sled said:

Sounds like a problem with the stator. Essentially the equivalent of an alternator in a car. It generates power when the engine is running. There's a bunch of them on ebay in the range of anywhere from just over $100 to $300. I'm not the most mechanically inclined but every now and then someone mentions something I have some familiarity with. Perhaps Wild Bill or Denis could lend a much more informed opinion of the likely cause.

 

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_pgn=1&isRefine=false&_nkw=skidoo 380 stator

Thanks for the information.  I would like to get a second opinion before I buy anything, but would you happen to know if this stator I found would work with my 1995 rotax? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKIDOO-ROTAX-BOMBARDIER-TYPE467-PARTS-STATOR-/222226314785?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275 

 

Thank you

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You better check that the stator plug for the lighting coils are not unplugged from the harness.  it may have been unplugged if the voltage regulator was shorted.  Check the stator coil resistance,usually very low like 1 or 2 ohms, and check for a short to the chassis (ground).  It's a very simple circuit.

 

BP

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2 hours ago, Tanner said:

Thanks for the information.  I would like to get a second opinion before I buy anything, but would you happen to know if this stator I found would work with my 1995 rotax? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKIDOO-ROTAX-BOMBARDIER-TYPE467-PARTS-STATOR-/222226314785?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275 

 

Thank you

Wild Bill or Denis would be a much more reliable source of information on this than me 

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Several things that it could be most often the regulator sometimes it is the wiring not often the stator . The problem is that if you do not test it properly you run the risk of buying parts that you do not need . My advice is to get it professionally diagnosed 

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On 4/26/2017 at 7:29 PM, Big Pussy said:

You better check that the stator plug for the lighting coils are not unplugged from the harness.  it may have been unplugged if the voltage regulator was shorted.  Check the stator coil resistance,usually very low like 1 or 2 ohms, and check for a short to the chassis (ground).  It's a very simple circuit.

 

BP

 

3 hours ago, Wildbill said:

Several things that it could be most often the regulator sometimes it is the wiring not often the stator . The problem is that if you do not test it properly you run the risk of buying parts that you do not need . My advice is to get it professionally diagnosed 

I will look into diagnosing this further and buy the proper parts if needed.  Thank you guys for the help

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One more newbie question: Where is the stator on the sled? I know how to test it but I am not sure where to find it.  I know every sled is different, so if I could get a general idea that would be great.

 

Thanks,

Tanner

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The stator on the right hand end of the engine crankcase covered by the flywheel and then the recoil starter housing.  The wire harness will come out of a hole in the case.  It is probably buried behind the muffler and under the pipe.  There may be more than one plug on the harness.  Typically, there are three wires to charge the capacitor in the CDI unit and a trigger coil to discharge and make the spark.  There will be three or four wires for the AC lighting coil that makes the power for the lights and charges the battery.  There will be a voltage regulator connected to the harness as well to limit the voltage so the lights don't burn out as the engine revs up. The regulator should shunt of the voltage peaks as a parallel load as the engine speed increases.  If you unplug the regulator to test it for a short across the stator, do not rev up the engine or you will blow out all the lights and possibly damage some instruments.  I am not an expert on Skippy-Doo's, but that age of engine cannot be too involved.  Try to find a wiring diagram on-line.

 

BP

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5 hours ago, Big Pussy said:

The stator on the right hand end of the engine crankcase covered by the flywheel and then the recoil starter housing.  The wire harness will come out of a hole in the case.  It is probably buried behind the muffler and under the pipe.  There may be more than one plug on the harness.  Typically, there are three wires to charge the capacitor in the CDI unit and a trigger coil to discharge and make the spark.  There will be three or four wires for the AC lighting coil that makes the power for the lights and charges the battery.  There will be a voltage regulator connected to the harness as well to limit the voltage so the lights don't burn out as the engine revs up. The regulator should shunt of the voltage peaks as a parallel load as the engine speed increases.  If you unplug the regulator to test it for a short across the stator, do not rev up the engine or you will blow out all the lights and possibly damage some instruments.  I am not an expert on Skippy-Doo's, but that age of engine cannot be too involved.  Try to find a wiring diagram on-line.

 

BP

Thank you!  

 

Today I did some testing with my multimeter and I discovered that the hand warmers work only on the low setting, and the thumb warmer gets too hot and starts smoking no matter what setting it is on.  The lights still do not work, and the battery does not charge while the engine is running.  If this information helps troubleshoot, or if anybody has any more ideas, that would be awesome.

 

Thank you all very much,

Tanner

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In my world, this would seem like a good job for a snowmobile repair shop.

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Are you sure the bulbs are still good?  If the regulator has gone, it may have already blown the bulbs.  The thumb warmer being too hot may be a clue.  Did you check the voltage when the engine is running?  Remember to check both AC and DC as it is likely that the lights and heaters are running off AC voltage.  I am suspecting the regulator has gone.

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The entire system is AC except for the battery and starting circuit on a 380.  DC should be present at the red/blue wire coming from the regulator that charges the battery . More than 15 volts AC at the headlight connection means a blown regulator .

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11 hours ago, Tanner said:

Thank you!  

 

Today I did some testing with my multimeter and I discovered that the hand warmers work only on the low setting, and the thumb warmer gets too hot and starts smoking no matter what setting it is on.  The lights still do not work, and the battery does not charge while the engine is running.  If this information helps troubleshoot, or if anybody has any more ideas, that would be awesome.

 

Thank you all very much,

Tanner

Sounds like you have a bunch of different issue's. I would remove the thumb warmer that is shorting by disconnecting it. The battery still isn't charging could be an issue with stator as well or a bad ground. Measure to see if there is an current flowing to the battery, when engine is running. Also check what Denis said above. Helps to start with a good fully charged battery that reads 13.2 volts, to ensure it isn't causing you funny issue's too.

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Some regulators can be blown and sled still runs fine. Had that issue in the past.

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I tested the headlight and tail light connections with the engine running and my multimeter set to AC.  Idling the voltage was around 15 or 20, and when I revved the engine I saw the voltage creep up to 32 volts.  I looked and both bulbs are burned out.  

 

Is this the type of regulator I am looking for to replace it? http://www.snowparthub.com/01_154_16_Sports_Parts_Universal_Regulator_Rectifier?src=Google&gclid=CjwKEAjw85DIBRCy2aT0hPmS1jkSJAC1m9UvjqArlWsyjEc3S2Tfhdfw5UTe3SJrZ0wyEE_0LGTGnRoCpwDw_wcB 

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On 4/30/2017 at 6:31 AM, catinental couch said:

I recommend that you use an original equipment regulator. I have not had much success with aftermarket ones.

we have had 100 percent success with the spx ones through Gamma . almost every dealer can buy from gamma 

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I will try to find an OEM or spx brand voltage regulator.  I may post later asking about compatibility.  Thanks to everybody for the help.

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On ‎01‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 10:50 PM, Tanner said:

I will try to find an OEM or spx brand voltage regulator.  I may post later asking about compatibility.  Thanks to everybody for the help.

They can be pricey. I paid 400 for one for a polaris two years ago. The orginal was riveted to the frame under steering post. So new one went back side of belt guard and had to fish wiring to the stator and un plug old one and plug in the new one. Hopefully your skidoo isn't like that.

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23 hours ago, Viperules700 said:

They can be pricey. I paid 400 for one for a polaris two years ago. The orginal was riveted to the frame under steering post. So new one went back side of belt guard and had to fish wiring to the stator and un plug old one and plug in the new one. Hopefully your skidoo isn't like that.

I took a look at my sled the other day and was able to remove the voltage regulator.  It was hard to do because it was under part of the engine and I had to reach my hands and wrench around the exhaust pipe to get at it but I managed to get it removed.  I haven't ordered anything yet but it looks like this will cost me anywhere from $30 to $100 dollars.

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2 hours ago, Tanner said:

I took a look at my sled the other day and was able to remove the voltage regulator.  It was hard to do because it was under part of the engine and I had to reach my hands and wrench around the exhaust pipe to get at it but I managed to get it removed.  I haven't ordered anything yet but it looks like this will cost me anywhere from $30 to $100 dollars.

At least they never riveted it in place. Buy a good one and you should be set for life of the snowmobile. They aren't a common failure part on older sleds. Had an 1997 formula 583, put on about 18,000 miles (not Km's). Never changed regulator. 

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Change the battery once the regulator is replaced. Regulators usually fail from trying to charge a chronic dead battery. 

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